MASAN SS15 Presents An Ethically Urban Homage To The Freedom of The Nomadic, Bohemian Spirit During Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin
An abandoned ice-rink with a live performance of Dante Alighieri’s work was the dramatic setting for the 4th successive season of the Award Winning high fashion, vegan brand UMASAN for their SS15 show, where the blending of genders was not so much a political statement as an embracing of a unisex future.
The collection is an ode to the wandering traveller, a nomadic bohemian spirit intrinsic to the UMASAN DNA. However this journey was a spiritual one, a journey of self, almost dream like rather than a physical experience. Possibly a reference to Henry Miller, “one’s destination is never a place, but a way of seeing things.”
The menswear collection is heavily influenced by luxe urban sportswear, with soft tailoring in the label’s staple fabrics of Tencel, SeaCell and cotton which offer free-flowing silhouettes that were styled with removable hood accessories and practical carryalls. A momentary slip, saw UMASAN’s strict palette of black and white confronted with a well-travelled, asymmetrical cut anorak in a rusted brown. The classic white shirt was injected with the quirky UMASAN touch, with off-centered buttons, while hooded sweat-shirts revealed edgy zip detailing at the back and t-shirts had lived-in slashed pockets.
The womenswear collection had ecclesiastical under tones, with modestly buttoned up shirts, sharply cut and paired with oversized, pleated culottes. The feminine figure was hidden away under layers of softly draped fabrics in rounded cocoon shapes reminiscent of futuristic armour. Clerically cut jackets were stiff in reverent contrast to the flowing silhouette that fought to be seen beneath. The rusted brown also made an appearance here, in the form of a structured trench, the colour perhaps referencing UMASAN’s own personal journey, the designers’ continued growth and the future of the label.
UMASAN, is the conceptual, vegan fashion brainchild of twin sisters, Anja and Sandra Umann, that has been on a roller coater of recognition since it’s launch in 2010. Widely known for their muted and austere, yet versatile and highly sophisticated ready-to-wear pieces they draw inspiration from the self and health style generation, yoga, art and literature. Sandra, a photographer, and Anja, ex designer for Yohji Yamamoto, combine their creative interests for a line that specialises in innovative materials, such as SeaCell and Tencel, together with interesting shapes to offer a fashion forward monochromatic aesthetic. There’s always something admirable when a label takes a forthright defiance and indifference to current fashion trends and this attitude and agenda is embodied in each of the predominantly masculine silhouettes boasting pristine German tailoring. It’s fun, unique and “the best black gear out there.”