Traverse City, Michigan: A Destination in Wine, Food, and the Outdoors

I have been intrigued since Good Morning America (GMA) named Traverse City, Michigan, the most beautiful place in America in 2011. The city’s freshwater beaches and stunning natural landscape draw over a million visitors annually. The fact that wine has been a part of the region since the 1970s is the cherry on top (perhaps a coincidence that Traverse City is known as the cherry capital of the world).
Many people are amazed to learn there are award-winning wineries in the Great Lakes region of the Upper Midwest. One might think it is too cold in Northern Michigan to grow quality grapes. On the contrary, the state has five American Viticultural Areas (AVAs). Two of these, Leelanau Peninsula and Old Mission Peninsula, are located near Traverse City on the Traverse Wine Coast.

The world’s ‘wine belt,’ or geographically favorable wine-growing regions, lie between 30- and 50-degrees latitude. Leelanau and Old Mission are on the 45th parallel, along with Bordeaux, France, Piedmont, Italy, and the Willamette Valley, Oregon. Additionally, the region experiences a temperate climate with warm summers and cold winters conducive to grape growing. The cool nights help preserve the grapes’ acidity, essential for high-quality wine. A step further, winemakers in the region tell me Lake Michigan is largely responsible for their success. Proximity to Lake Michigan moderates temperatures, creating a unique microclimate that reduces the risk of frost and helps extend the growing season. The higher elevations also help reduce the risk of frost damage and enhance air circulation around the vines.

What about the soils, you ask? The area’s diverse soils include sandy loam and clay, which provide good drainage and nutrients for grapevines. These well-drained soils are crucial for healthy root systems and prevent waterlogging that can harm the vines. The rolling hills of the Old Mission and Leelanau Peninsulas provide excellent sun exposure and drainage, both critical for grape cultivation. These regions enjoy a relatively long growing season suitable for grape varieties like Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot.

During my visit to the region, I saw firsthand how the people working in the wine industry interact for the good of their craft. A supportive community of winemakers fosters innovation and collaboration; it is evident they have one another’s best interests at heart. Below are my recommendations for wineries, restaurants, and lodging while in the area.

Wineries

Verterra Winery

Visit the tasting room in Leland, a preserved historic fishing district filled with quaint shops, galleries, and eateries. The charming brick building is a great place to sample the wide selection of whites, roses, and red wines in still, sparkling, dry, and sweet styles. If you are lucky enough to meet the Owner, Paul Hamelin, he is a wealth of information about the region, so pick his brain if you want to learn how Michigan got on the wine map!

The family-owned winery loves to experiment with varietals while always ensuring the best quality fruit. One of their most popular wines is the Pinot Blanc, which won best dry white wine in Michigan and double gold in the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. I loved the 2021 Pinot Noir; the lovely spice of white pepper, aromas of fresh violets, and silky tannins made it a delightful affair.

Aurora Cellars

On the Leelanau Peninsula, the property at Aurora Cellars is as picturesque as it is welcoming. They also have a fun educational aspect; you scan a QR code to listen to the winemaker tell stories of the vineyard as you stroll among the vines with your glass of wine.

The family, which also owns Good Harbor Vineyards and Harbor Hill Fruit Farms, is one of the largest farmers in the region, and hard work is their way of life. Co-owner Taylor Simpson is good-natured and down to earth, and every style of each varietal on their menu is exceptional. Their Brut Rose of Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, and Pinot Noir is their biggest seller, and it has also earned numerous prestigious awards and accolades. My favorite was the Rose of Pinot Noir, a delicate Provence-style summer wine.

Black Star Farms

The ultimate escape from reality, Black Star Farms, has everything you need to relax and unwind. You can stay and play at Black Star Farms Suttons Bay by spending the night at their 10-room Bed & Breakfast Inn. In the morning, wake up, enjoy the equestrian facility or hiking trails, and then indulge in dinner at their exclusive on-site restaurant, Bistro Polaris. The culinary program at Black Star is first-rate as they create local-sourced cuisine for their guests, from farm-fresh breakfasts to elegant private wine dinners. If you have a big event coming up, search no more – you want Black Star to host it.

The winery makes over 50 wines, ciders, and spirits from local fruit. I had a special opportunity to taste with Managing Owner Sherri Campbell Fenton, who, by the way, will move mountains to ensure you have an unforgettable experience. Black Star has been sourcing fruit from vineyards from both the Leelanau and Old Mission Peninsula and is Michigan’s first and only winery awarded ‘Best in Show’ at the Canberra International Riesling Competition. You are sure to feel the passion that goes into the winemaking as you sample a flight in their tasting room. From light to bold, you will find your treasured wine – for me, it was the Isidors Choice Terrace Red, a blend of Teroldego, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot – a beautifully orchestrated wine with peppery notes, flavors of wild berries, and exquisite minerality.

Mari Vineyards

The Tuscan-inspired tasting room on Old Mission Peninsula with East Bay views is the closest feeling to being at a villa in Italy you are going to get. Owner, Founder, and star of the History Channel’s show, The Curse of Oak Island, Marty Lagina, stays true to his Italian heritage in every way. Many of the varietals are Italian, and the décor, music, and wine caves have a touch of Italy. The tasting room is full of art and furniture from repurposed material to give all things a 2nd life – such a remarkable concept.

The staff at Mari shares a sense of ownership with Lagina, and their respect for their winemaker is palpable in every sip. Book their terrace for your group to include seasonal bites and a private tasting or take a self-guided tour and enjoy the views with glass in hand. While it was hard to narrow it down, my glass was the Bel Tramonto (which translates to a beautiful sunset in Italian), a blend of Merlot, Refosco, Sangiovese, and Teroldego. It was a classic Mari wine with lively acid, cranberry notes, and a silky tannic structure.

Brys Estate Vineyard & Winery

With 150 acres, Brys Estate is the largest contiguous winery estate on Old Mission Peninsula. The panoramic views of green plantings and blue waters from the upper deck patio are wondrous. Hospitality is second to none, and the culinary delights are perfect pairings for the wine. You can also explore the property at their lawn lounge or their 2-hour wine wagon tour and tasting.

The Napa-inspired estate is the brainchild of Walt and Eileen Brys, who came out of retirement to create something that lives on through their children, who currently operate the estate. Son Patrick Brys is the President and CEO, and daughter Katie Brys manages the Secret Garden and Lavender Farm. I was lucky to taste a flight tree with Erick Outcalt Brys, Sales & Distribution Manager, who warmly walked me through the history of the winery. Brys Estate has received countless awards, including ‘Best of the Best Winery’ 2024 in Traverse Magazine and Red Hot Best. My Somm pick is the Merlot Reserve, a complex wine with tart blueberry notes and a rich, creamy mouthfeel.

Chateau Chantal

Just when I thought I couldn’t possibly see a more stunning scene, we visited Chateau Chantal. With terraces and outdoor seating on all sides and breathtaking views that envelope the tasting room, this chateau is a little slice of heaven. Inside and out, people, it is a bustling place with vibrant energy. Founded by Bob and Nadine Begin, a former priest and nun, their first vineyard was planted in 1986. Daughter Marie-Chantal and grandchildren currently lead the way, while keeping the original vision for great hospitality and making iconic wine alive. Chateau Chantal is also an Inn with 12 suites, many with balconies, kitchens, and living spaces. The winery offers jazz at sunset nights and has a culinary program with small bites in the tasting room, private wine dinners, and tapas tours.

Director of Marketing Kyle Brownley led me through a tasting while I occasionally gazed out at the calm waters in the distance, which was every bit part of the experience. Their menu’s lovely array of wines, from Pinots to Malbecs, is impressive. My first pick was the Proprietor’s Reserve Pinot Noir, which had flavors of candied cherries and Mediterranean spices.

Left Foot Charley

The only urban winery in the region, Left Foot Charley (LFC), is in the heart of Traverse City in the Village at Grand Traverse Commons, the former home of the Northern Michigan Asylum. The space has a tasting room and a barrel room for sampling flights and enjoying small plates. Left Foot Charley and winemaker Bryan Ulbrich work co-op style with 19 of the best growers in Northern Michigan to produce their wine. The combination of their grower’s fruit and the talents of Ulbrich make LFC a one-of-a-kind winery in the area.

Tasting Room & Club Manager Jessica Gegel created a line-up of wines for me to taste in the climate-controlled barrel room among the aging wines. LFC offers all styles of wines and ciders, each with a story from the vineyard and vintage it came. My personal favorite was the 2022 Island View Pinot Blanc, which had bright citrus and crisp gala apple notes with hints of honey.

Best Restaurants

amical

The downtown Traverse City restaurant has an open kitchen and café-style dining room with inside and patio seating. It serves European cuisine using the freshest ingredients, and the menu changes depending on the season. General Manager Jeffrey Libman brings soulfulness to each table.

The extensive wine list offered fantastic options; since I love to drink wine from the region I am visiting, we chose the 2 Lads Cabernet Franc/Merlot from a winery near the Old Mission Peninsula. The Olive Twists, a puff pastry with feta, olive tapenade, and orange pepper cream, is a must-try. I recommend the white fish or rabbit dish as an entrée and their famous raspberry Crème brulee for dessert.

Trattoria Stella

Located in the Village at Grand Traverse Commons, a historic 1884 hospital complex now a sprawling shopping, dining, and high-end neighborhood, Trattoria Stella is Italian dining at its best. Upon arrival, the romantic and intimate ambiance grabs your heart, and the dimmed lighting in a cellar-like setting transforms you into another place.

Advanced Sommelier Amanda Danielson is on the Stella team and is dedicated to elevating the Michigan wine industry. She has curated a spectacular wine list for the restaurant that includes local Michigan bottles. We ordered the Cabernet Franc from Shady Lane Cellars in the Leelanau Peninsula.

To start, I recommend ordering the Burrata and Squash Blossoms, followed by the Shaved Fennel Salad. The decadent entrées will be hard to choose from, but you won’t go wrong with the Spaghetti and Long Island Duck Leg or the Veal Scaloppine.

Aerie Restaurant & Lounge

The upscale restaurant is on the 16th floor of the Grand Traverse City Resort and Spa. It offers magnificent panoramic views of Grand Traverse Bay, and the culinary team will surely make your evening memorable.

The Melted Raclette over Fingerling potatoes is a must-order appetizer. For entrees, I recommend Scallops or Duck Breast. Sticking with the Michigan wine theme, we ordered Black Star Farm’s Arcturos Cabernet Franc, a brilliant pairing with our dishes.

Casual Bites

Bad Dog Deli in Old Mission is a fabulous pit stop for grabbing a sandwich or salad during a wine-tasting break. The Cherry Chicken Salad was the best!

A trip to TVC wouldn’t be complete without cherry pie. The Grand Traverse Pie Company is a delicious place to have a quick breakfast or lunch. The Chicken Salad Croissant is great!
Leelanau Cheese Company has been making artisan cheeses for more than 25 years. Stop in and pick up a nutty Raclette or French-style Fromage Blanc.

Best Places to Stay

The Inn at Black Star Farms

The 10-room bed and breakfast reminded me of a larger version of the historic Stratford Inn in the 1982 comedy Newhart. The beautiful lobby, curved staircase leading to the suites, quaint patio seating to relax with coffee or wine, and morning greeting at breakfast are a dream. The bistro and tasting room are on-site, as are recreational hiking trails and the equestrian facility.

Grand Traverse City Resort and Spa

The full-service resort offers 54 holes of championship golf, a private beach club, an indoor water playground, indoor/outdoor tennis courts, shopping, and restaurants. There is plenty to do without leaving the resort, which offers kid-friendly options like ice cream and game rooms.

Amenities include coffee, water, snacks, plush, comfortable bedding, and spacious bathrooms. Many of the rooms provide spectacular views of the lake, which are extra special at sunrise and sunset.

The Outdoors

Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore

As an avid hiker, these dunes have been on my list of hikes for a long time. I knew I had a tight schedule while in TVC, so I got there bright and early, at 6 a.m., to accomplish as much of the park as possible. It was August, so it was still a bit dark when I started, but the moonlight was incredible and led the way.

I heard you couldn’t get lost hiking the dunes, but I managed to do so anyway. Once you climb the first section of dunes, several forks take you to different lookouts. So, please bring plenty of water and your GPS. I will say that if one must get lost, this is one of the most astonishing places to do so.

Once you climb several dunes, you will see the crystal-clear waters of Lake Michigan and the inland lakes, flora, and lush forests. I spotted white-tailed deer frolicking about the highlands. Once I finished my hike, I drove to some of the lookout points—Lake Michigan was the most crazy beautiful! The scenery is enthralling and is embedded in my memory for life—do not leave TVC without making this stop.

Wind Dancer Sailing Tours

Make reservations for a sailing adventure with Wind Dancer Sailing Tours. They offer Sunset, Day Tours, Champagne, and Adventure Sails and aim to give you an unforgettable experience. The 63-foot schooner takes you out on the waters so you can soak up the surroundings. Depending on which sail you choose, you may enjoy a locally curated lunch with wine or a stop at Power Island.

Owner Tawny Hammond is one of the few women schooner owners on the Great Lakes and a licensed Captain with the US Coastal Guard. She is all about details and special touches for your entertainment and pleasure. Due to a scheduling conflict, I didn’t get to sail, but I did get some time with Hammond and her crew to sit on the boat and chat. They shared the history of the waters and spoke with a genuine love for sailing. I was quite taken by the team, and Hammond is full of fun and knowledge – be sure to put a Wind Dancer sailing excursion on your list of things to do.

Whether you go to Traverse City for food, wine, or the outdoors, the city will surely tug at your heartstrings. Lake Michigan is majestic and admirable, as its waters offer swimming, boating, and fishing and provide the desirable influence for wine grapes to flourish. I thank you, Traverse City Tourism, for hosting me on this press trip. Your staff’s hospitality exceeded my expectations, and you are great stewards of your city!