Discover art, architecture and history on a Minneapolis City & Skyway Tour

Walking has always been my go-to mode of exploration when I visit a new city. Not only do I get a feel of a destination’s vibe and see its attractions, but I also get the additional bonus of exercise. And when I opt for a guided tour, it’s the trifecta! 

Recently, I was in Minneapolis and wanted to learn more about the town, as my once and only previous visit here was eons ago. And I had little recollection of the place other than attending a show at the famed Guthrie Theater. 

I booked an excursion with Minneapolis City & Skyway Tours, which offers two different tours: Minneapolis City Walking Tour and Minneapolis Skyway Tour. The former operates May through September, while the latter goes year round, which is ideal in the winter months when it’s brutally cold, or when it’s rainy, or even when it’s too humid and hot. 

Minneapolis actually has the largest, contiguous skyway system in the world. It was originally created to help revitalize the city’s retail core after the 1950s suburban boom. Today, the second story walkways connect eighty city blocks and span more than nine miles. 

Minneapolis City & Skyway Tours owner/guide Jessica Schugel offered to do a combo of the tours so I could enjoy both experiences, which I appreciated. She also noted that the skyway contains many art and architectural gems that people can’t see from street level.

The city is home for Schugel and she has been leading tours for over a decade, both here as well as in far-flung places, including Nicaragua, which she considers her home away from home. She believes in making personal connections through travel, noting, “It’s a big part of what makes life interesting.” In regards to Minneapolis, she says, “There are so many people and places that make this city special, which is why I spend so much of my free time roaming the streets enjoying the familiar, and in search of what’s new.” 

Our tour began at the Foshay Tower. Completed in 1929 and modeled after the Washington Monument, the building is a great example of Art Deco architecture. It’s one of the most recognizable structures in the Twin Cities and at 447 feet high with 32 stories, it had the distinction of being the tallest building in the Midwest for 48 years. It has been on the National Register of Historic Landmarks since 1978.

Designed by architect Leon Eugene Arnal for utility business magnate Wilbur Foshay, the building boasts African mahogany, Italian marble, terrazzo tile and silver-and-gold-plated ceilings, elaborately embellished doorways, cathedral style light fixtures and Foshay’s name carved in ten-foot-high letters on all four sides of the limestone pyramid. 

The storied history behind the Foshay Tower is “part Greek fable, part Citizen Kane,” as it tells the tale of the rise and fall of a powerful tycoon. Wilbur Foshay was fascinated by the design of the Washington Monument and proposed building a tribute in Minneapolis to himself and his success (no ego there!). The structure was slated to be offices for the city’s top businesses, but the 27th and 28th floors were to be just for the millionaire himself.

It took two years to build, but just after the opening celebration, the stock market crashed and Foshay couldn’t pay the builders. And the Ponzi scheme he enacted backfired. He was subsequently tried on criminal mail fraud charges, having advertised and sold overvalued stock using the federal postal service. His company folded, he went to prison and the Tower went up for sale. Foshay never did get a chance to stay in his lavish suite, which was never completed. 

Today, the Foshay Tower houses the W Hotel. There’s a museum devoted to the building’s unique construction and its eccentric creator, along with an observation deck on the 31st floor, where you can get 360 degree views of the city. 

Along the same street is the currently tallest building in Minnesota, the IDS Center. It stands 792 feet above the city and is at the core of the downtown skyway system. Completed in 1972, it remains one of the most prominent properties west of the Mississippi River. It includes nearly two million square feet of mixed-use space, a retail center, nineteen-story luxury hotel and an award-winning, enclosed, indoor, eight-story urban park. The latter, Crystal Court, is a lovely tree-lined atrium surrounded by shops and restaurants. There’s a reflection pool and plenty of benches to sit and people watch. 

Nearby is the RBC building, another stalwart, vertically-stacked skyscraper in the city’s core sector. This contemporary, forty-story, mixed-use structure with office space, condos, the Four Seasons Hotel, restaurants and more, is the new kid on the block, having opened just two and a half years ago. 

Schugel led us downstairs, where Viola Frey’s sculpture, “Fallen Man II,” sits alone. Frey was an American sculptor known for her larger-than-life monumental ceramic figures of men in power suits and women clothed in fashions of the 50s or dressed in pink in their birthday suits. We commented on how unfortunate it is to have a work of art by a celebrated sculptor in a place where not too many people see it. 

Another Art Deco masterpiece is the old Farmers and Mechanics Savings Bank, now the Westin Hotel. Built in 1942, this handsome structure, like many others downtown, is also on the National Register of Historic Places. I was delighted to see that a number of aspects from the original building were kept intact and have new uses, such as the teller counter, which is now a bar, and the safety deposit vault, serving as a wine cellar. 

The Rand Tower is an additional example of the ornate Deco style of the Jazz Age. Designed by WWI aviator and daring adventurer Rufus R. Rand Jr., the building, which is now a boutique hotel, has a prominent aviation theme inside and out. Aviation-inspired artwork line the walls and stars and silver moons dot some of the floors. 

U.S. Bank Plaza, originally called Pillsbury Center, is notable for its pair of marble towers with bronze-tinted reflective windows. One is 21 stories tall and the other, 40. They’re connected by a large atrium lit naturally by a dramatic glass ceiling. Hanging down into this open area is Loren Madsen’s giant V-shaped sculpture titled, “Hanging Stones.” It’s very eye-catching and at first glance it appears carved from a single piece of black granite. As we got closer, however, we realized it’s actually 276 separate pieces, individually suspended by cables from above. 

One of my favorite buildings is the Capella Tower due to the treasure trove of artwork inside. “Capella Basket,” is the attention-getting centerpiece for the building. Artist Jason Krugman blended craft with technology in creating this amazing work, which comprises over 10,000 circuit boards that distribute and deliver power to nearly 2,000 LED light sources. Measuring 22 feet by 22 feet by 16 feet and hanging seventy feet in the air, it appears to float within the large glass-walled atrium.

“Fresnel Wing” by James Carpenter is another impressive structure in the Tower. It hangs from the ceiling on the skyway level and is constructed out of aluminum, stainless steel and glass panels. Each of the 56 panels ranges in hues of pastel yellow to pink. The color comes from the lights aimed at the panels, but the color is diffused by a special coating on the panels. I was enchanted with the hue alterations.

Also within the Capella Tower is an array of glasswork by Dale Chihuly. The series of bowls, entitled “Macchia Forms,” are set within their own lit cases. In typical Chihuly style, the pieces shimmer with vibrant colors -green, pink, purple and blue. And they have the look of something organic from the sea. 

Minneapolis City Hall and Courthouse is an historic beauty. Built between 1887 and 1906, and designed by Long and Keys Architects, it’s an elegant and grand building, noted for its Richardsonian Romanesque architecture. It boasts stained glass windows, carved Italian marble, an impressive vestibule and majestic, five-story rotunda. 

At the center of the rotunda is “Father of Waters,” a massive sculpture by Larkin G. Mead, made from what was then the world’s largest block of marble. The marble came from the same quarry that Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo used for their materials. Good luck is said to come to whoever rubs the sculpture’s big toe. And yes, you bet I rubbed it!

Turns out the statue was originally made for New Orleans, but when that town failed to come up with the money, some good folks from Minneapolis bought it and moved it here in 1904. All the elements of the sculpture fit with the city’s Mississippi River connection, but one – the alligators!

The clock tower at City Hall is also notable, as when it was installed, it was the largest in the world. The bells were originally played by pressing gigantic wooden levers located in the tower. Now they’re played from a keyboard situated in the Rotunda. 

Then there’s the Hennepin County Government Center. Its central piece of art is a sizable reflecting pool and fountain. Water arches out of mill machinery pieces that look like cannons. The mill theme is apt, as Minneapolis was built on the milling industry.

One of the most unique art installations is in the Minneapolis Public Service Center. “Lines of Flight, Human,” by Futures North looks a bit like Morse Code with its dots and dashes. Learning that the work was inspired by the history of human migration to the region fascinated me. Information about the installation says that it “visualizes U.S. Census demographic data as woven bands creating an interconnected network and each band corresponds to the migration of a different population and grows denser during periods of increased migration.” You can follow the work as it continues along the windows of the skyway bridge from the Service Center to the Hennepin County Courthouse. 

The Grain Exchange is another highlight. Intricate stonework outlines the exteriors of the trio of structures and a marble staircase is featured in the Main Building Lobby. Built in 1903, it was one of the first steel structures in the city and features the historic trading floor that was home to the much-prized Hard Red Spring Wheat market. Throughout the years, buyers and sellers worked to expedite grain from the farm to the consumer’s table. 

This trading floor is now a cooperative workspace, but still retains the original trading board, along with its handsome Palladian windows, 42-foot ceiling and other wonderful, classical architecture components.

Sculptures dot the downtown sector and as we walked, Schugel pointed out several pieces, including the Mary Tyler Moore bronze, “Rockman” and “Dancers.”

The Mary Tyler Moore statue, created by sculptor Gwendolyn Gillen, is a popular attraction with fans, tourists and locals. It captures the immortal moment when Mary throws her hat in the air during the opening credits of the 1970s hit TV show. This sitcom put Minneapolis on the map. 

The “Rockman” statues by Tom Otterness add a whimsical vibe to the front of the U.S. Courthouse. The tall piece looks like a pile of rocks, but look closely and you’ll see there are little minions hiding among the stones. And more can be found scattered throughout the courthouse plaza. Even the groundskeepers are minions!  

“Dancers” is the work of Columbian artist Fernando Botero, known for his style of depicting people in large, exaggerated volumes. Though exaggerated, there is a sensuality about the figures. Fun fact about Botero: He discovered art when he gave up the idea of becoming a bullfighter. He found he preferred painting and drawing the bulls rather than fighting them. 

Towards the end of the tour, we headed down to the riverfront where Mill City is located. This architectural showpiece rises eight stories within the limestone ruins of the Washburn A Mill. Minneapolis was once the “Flour Milling Capital of the World,” powered by the mighty Mississippi and supplied by trains full of boxcars carrying grains from the plains. 

Inside Mill City is a museum where you can explore antique milling equipment, vintage advertising and tales from the wheat farms. Schugel told us the ruins area is an open air courtyard that’s often used for special events and concerts.

Nearby is the Guthrie Theater, an internationally-recognized performance hall with three state-of-the-art stages, production facilities, classrooms, restaurants and public lobbies. Designed by prize-winning architect Jean Nouvel, the Guthrie was founded in 1963 by Sir Tyrone Guthrie. It’s a beloved landmark in the city with an audience attendance of over 300,000 annually.

The Guthrie sits on land overlooking the Mississippi on one side and the Minneapolis skyline on the other. Within the theater are many amazing spaces, with the “Endless Bridge” being one of the building’s most stunning architectural features. A 178-foot cantilever protrudes from the side of the structure, carrying guests out to picturesque views of the landscape. Equally as beautiful of views can be seen from the Dowling Studio Lounge. This captivating space shows off the scenery through yellow-tinted, floor-to-ceiling windows, infusing the area with warm color. 

Many famous actors have worked at the Guthrie, including Hume Cronyn, Jessica Tandy, Ian McKellen, Mahershala Ali, Morgan Freeman, Elizabeth Banks and more. A number of these individuals got their start at the Guthrie before heading to the bright lights of Broadway. 

Seeing a performance at the Guthrie is a real treat and a must for visitors who want to get the full experience of the theater. 

We finished the tour by strolling along the Boardwalk, a popular place for locals and visitors to get their steps, along with great views of St. Anthony Falls. This is the only natural, major waterfall on the Mississippi River. It was named by Father Louis Hennepin, the first white person to encounter the waterfall in 1680. He named it for his patron saint, Anthony of Padua.

Throughout this excursion, Schugel engaged us with pertinent information and entertaining stories. Her enthusiasm for her hometown is infectious and it’s clear she takes pleasure in sharing her knowledge with others. And though we covered much ground (and skyways!), she emphasized there was so much more to be seen in this fascinating destination. I’ll be back!

minneapoliscitytours.com

Feature Photo, The mighty Missississpi as seen from the Boardwalk. Photo by Debbie Stone