Deep Sea Fishing in La Paz in Baja California Sur

Deep sea fishing has always been on my bucket list. Little did I know that in La Paz, the beautiful capital of Baja California Sur, I would be on a boat at 5:45 a.m., with five other fishing enthusiasts hoping to catch a big prize.

Flying into Los Cabos International airport, Jose Ramon Cota Martinez from the La Paz Tourism Board greeted me and two other people before driving us one hour to a charming village for anglers, couples and families, Los Barriles. Translated in English to The Barrels, the contrast between the sea and desert with its beautiful landscape is breathtaking.

The town offers a couple hotels, restaurants and activities. It’s much different than Cabo San Lucas in a calmer, less populated way. Pulling into the Van Wormer Resort Hotel Palmas de Cortez, we noticed the resort is located right on the beach. Throughout the day, guests not fishing, cool off in the picturesque infinity edge pool and order a cool beverage from the swim-up bar overlooking the magnificent Sea of Cortez. There are multiple dining venues, swinging hammocks, a small boutique, and arrangements can be made to explore other small towns on the way to La Paz.

Around 6 a.m., we set out to find our captain and boat. Before sunrise, there were already dozens of boats waiting to pick up guests at the resort’s private dock.

We cruised in the calm water for over one hour to find the best spot to fish for tuna, mahi-mahi and marlin. Catching three yellowfin tuna before noon was quite a thrill. Even though these fish weighed around 10 pounds each, they gave us a good workout reeling them in.

Next we cruised to an area that had over 100 dolphin cresting in our wake and beautifully jumping out of the water. Within an hour we caught a striking yellow, blue and green mahi-mahi. Since this was a 40 pound fish, it took twice as long to reel this fish into the boat. Excitement filled the air as everyone was giving instructions and encouragement to bring this fish in.

Our biggest challenge was a 160 pound marlin. This majestic fish gave us a long fight, but finally we brought him up into the boat and noticed he had a small white marlin sucker remora attached to his side. After two photos, we released both the marlin and remora back into the water.

This was just a practice day in Los Barriles, as we were registered to be one of 167 boats to compete in “Fishing in La Paz” the first of 60 “Fishing in the Five” fishing tournaments that conclude in Loreto, BCS in 2023. The prize for the following day tournament was two and half million pesos in prizes.

Cruising back to the dock, our Captain had his first mate raise the flags. He first raised three tuna flags, then two mahi-mahi flags, and last a marlin flag. They took the fish off the boat to be weighed and we discovered that we caught over 250 pounds of fish in one day. Since we released some, our friend Jose had the restaurant at Hotel Palmas de Cortez filet a tuna and mahi-mahi to enjoy for dinner in La Paz. They packed the freshly filleted fish in ice, and Jose drove us for over one hour to the beautiful boutique Baja Club Hotel across the street from the picturesque La Paz Malecon.

Old meets the new is the Baja Club Hotel. What was once the home of a wealthy pearl merchant, is now a small and lovely hotel for visitors in La Paz. The old brick exterior was kept intake, and a new four story modern hotel shaped like a boat was built in a garden courtyard. The modern guest rooms with Asian minimalist décor is soothing to the eye. Rooms and suites offer comfortable king-size beds, large tiled bathroom, mini bar filled with local snacks and beverages, robes in the closet and a safe. Up on the top floor is a rooftop bar offering panoramic views of the city and bay. Below is a shallow lap pool with lounge area, renovated reception area, library, lounge and bar and garden restaurant.

After checking us in, Jose walked with along the Malecon to one of his favorite restaurants for dinner. Along the way noticed a lively fiesta, as excited locals and tourists were about to partake in a big prize fishing tournament the next day.

He shared with us that La Paz needs this type of tournament to rebound tourism since the pandemic. The State Government head Prof. Víctor Manuel Castro Cosio will continue to support holding of these high-level events through 2023.

The talented chef at Origen inside the boutique Casa del Mar prepared our fresh fish filets three different ways. We learned that Jose brought our filets to his friend and the chef of Origen, after dropping us off at Baja Club Hotel. Two of the courses were made from the tuna we caught, and the final course was grilled mahi-mahi with scallop potatoes and asparagus.

The following morning, before sunrise, our captain greeted us at the dock and motored his boat to the registration area. As we held up a sign that read # 03 to be acknowledged as participants, we were wished “buena suerte – good luck”.

We were the third team of 167 registered boats, some of the boats were modest and others were luxurious. We learned that there were 617 fishermen and women participating and 70% were from La Paz. The other 30% were fishing enthusiasts from Los Cabos and other municipalities or countries.

We idled in the clear blue water looking towards the La Paz Malecon and golden sunrise, until a firework was shot into the air at 7 in the morning, signifying the start of the “Fishing in La Paz” tournament.

Full steam ahead to discover the best spot to reel in a winning catch, but first we slowed to a stop to get live bait from an entrepreneur with a hole in his boat. His small wooden boat had hundreds of small fish for bait. They were swimming inside the boat as he was standing inside scooping up a bucket full of water and fish. He would hand the bait to the captain and receive payment along with an empty bucket.

Full of confidence we raced out to different fishing spots, yet hardly received a nibble. At one spot we quickly lost a mahi-mahi who took our bait and fled. Another area we saw a large mahi-mahi jump out of the water to distract some birds, yet it never came close to our lines or boat. After seven hours, we motored back to the harbor without one fish, but seeing the beautiful water, islands and scenery of La Paz, (and catching fish the day before) made us all feel like winners.

According to a recap days later, The Secretary of the Committee, Juan Javier García Davis announced that 52 teams presented a copy of dorado (mahi-mahi) to the scale, with the winners being those who caught fish weighing 46.3 pounds, 41.4 pounds and 39 pounds. While in the “catch and release” mode, a total of 16 teams participated and showed two videos each as proof of their catch. Teams “La Chingona” and “El Palmito” were the winners.

We celebrated back at Baja Club Hotel’s swimming pool, and enjoyed dinner on the dining terrace. The dinner menu offers an array of specialty Mediterranean dishes prepared by Greek chef Panagiotis Vounos. The next morning, guests receive a complimentary breakfast on the same terrace that includes, juice, coffee or tea, pastry, yogurt and granola.

After breakfast Jose picked us up to drive us back to the airport in Los Cabos. The drive took over three hours as we drove through the charming towns of Todos Santos, Cerritos, Pescadero, and Cabo San Lucas.

Fishing in La Paz is a wonderful way to explore “the world’s aquarium” stated Jacques Cousteau. In October through April, it’s one of the only places where locals and visitors can swimming with peaceful whale sharks, and dive with sea lions.

Discover the charm and warmth that La Paz offers year round. From sunrise and sunsets by the sea, beautiful sandy beaches, colorful street art, friendly residents and lively boardwalks. There are so many opportunities for visitors to experience one of their most memorable vacations in Baja California Sur.