Exploring Nebraska’s Unique Sights on Scenic Byways
Flying into Denver International Airport, I met some friends to drive together through the Northwester region of Nebraska. The 37th state admitted into the union, offers some surprising sights and spectacular evening stars. Known as a ‘flyover state’ (people fly over while traveling from coast to coast), we discovered friendly people, historical sights, natural wonders and a diverse culinary scene.
BYWAYS
Nebraska’s offers some of the most popular scenic byways including the Lewis & Clark Scenic Byway, the Outlaw Trail Scenic Byway, and the Sandhills Journey Scenic Byway. The state has 9 scenic byways to follow the trails of the emigrant pioneers, on picturesque city streets and off the grid.
Lincoln Highway was built to run through the town of Potter in 1913. It stretched from Times Square NYC to San Francisco and has about 450 miles of byways through Nebraska. We stopped in the charming historic town of Potter for a cool treat. Potter was established in 1870 by Joseph S. Potter. It’s located in Cheyenne County and has an elevation of 4387 above sea level. It’s just a minute off of I-80 in the Nebraska Panhandle and about a two and a half hour drive from the Denver International airport.
Fun Fact: The Tin Roof Sundae was created in the town of Potter during in the early 1930s, by the owner’s teenage son “Pinky” who was a soda jerk. In 1938 a sundae cost $0.15 cents.
Stopping for a meal at The Potter Sundry, we were greeted by some friendly residents of the town with approximately 300 residents. We sat next to the historic soda fountain for a scoop of chocolate and vanilla ice cream, topped with chocolate syrup, fluffy marshmallow cream and nuts. The Tin Roof Sundae was named after the tin ceiling.
Fun Fact: Potter is the only town west of the Mississippi that has a restored Duckpin Bowling Alley.
Climbing up a flight of wood stairs in a building built in 1919 to the historic three-lane Duckpin bowling alley. A child sat above each alley and would set the pins after we rolled a smaller type bowling ball. This space is a social hub for the community, as is Bags Bar & Steakhouse, known for their delicious “Rocky Mountain Oysters” with a tongue tingling cocktail sauce. They go well with a Flyover Brewing Co. beer. I sat with the town ambassador Hal Enevoldsen to enjoy my tasty fried treat before seeing his gardens, and learning about his motel and Point of Rocks RV Park.
Fun Fact: Rocky Mountain Oysters are cut and fried bull testicles.
Next we drove Northwest on the scenic Bridges to Buttes byway to Crawford, known as the “Big Game Capital of Nebraska.” It was a pretty three hour drive through vast prairies and unique geological formations that are national treasures.
Staying overnight at Our Heritage Guest Ranch, the ranch owner Jean Norman opened her family homestead that is a National Natural Landmark to the public. Her ancestors were provided the land by the federal Homestead Act of 1862, and granted around 160 acres to settle on and farm the land. She now has over 300 acres to raise cattle, horses, peacocks, a donkey and border collies.
Her guest lodging includes a small house, rooms inside a barn and recreational vehicles. Surrounding the ranch is unique landscape with pine covered hills that meet badlands and prairie. It’s a unique wedding, family reunion and wellness retreat.
The ranch is just a ten minute drive to Toadstool Geological Park, named after the unusual toadstool geological formations. The area offers fossils that have provided scientists insight into the behavior of animals who passed through this area some 30 million years ago.
The wide-open spaces offers limited light pollution in the evening deeming it one of the darkest spots in Nebraska to see stars, constellations, the Milky Way and International Space Station flying overhead every 90 minutes.
The next morning, we drove in the opposite direction to visit a modern archaeology excavation site at Hudson-Meng Reseach and Education Center. Located in the Oglala National Grassland, visitors can tour one of the most important paleo-archeological discoveries in North America. There are multiple bone bed enclosures displaying ancient skeletons of approximately 600 bison. They aren’t the same species of bison that exist today; these animals lived tens of thousands of years ago on the American plains and mysteriously died here. It’s open for limited days and hours in 2022.
Also in the Crawford area is the historic Fort Robinson State Park that was the site of the 1879 Cheyenne Outbreak and the death of famed Sioux Chief Crazy Horse. Over the years, the fort served the Red Cloud Indian Agency, and where blue-coated cavalrymen once bunked. It was established as a state park in 1962, and now offers stagecoach trail rides, and jeep tours. Visiting the interactive State History Museum we learned about two Woolly Mammoths that got into a tangle and died onsite with their tusks stuck together.
Driving about one hour to the city of Alliance, is Carhenge, a whimsical replica of Stonehenge. Built as memorial to the artist Jim Reinders father who lived on this land, Reinders painted 38 classic 1960s and 1970s cars a stone gray color. Next he arranged them in a full scale replica of England’s mystical arrangement of stones that chart the sun and moon phases. It’s open year round, and during the summer there is a gift shop to purchase souvenirs and snacks.
After visiting the town of Alliance with over 8,000 residents, we drove to the town of Valentine along the Outlaw Trail Scenic Byway to see the Smith Falls and numerous Wildlife Management Areas which offer opportunities for lodging, camping, golfing, swimming, boating, fishing, trail rides and hiking.to see the scenic Smith Falls State Park.
It’s Nebraska’s highest waterfall, and Little Outlaw Outfitters uses the park to provide kayaks, canoes, and tubes to paddle or float down the beautiful Niobrara River. This national scenic river has a stop to take a short walk to Smith Falls. Named for Frederic Smith, who filed the first homestead patent on the land that encompasses the falls, and later this area became a state park in 1992. Not only is the land home to soaring falls, it is also an area of biological significance where several ice age species can still be found.
Working up an appetite, we stopped at the Old Mill Bulk Foods and Deli for brick oven pizza, a variety of sandwiches and desserts made in-house. They also have a bulk food section and gift shop to stock up for another night star party. Driving to Merritt Reservoir Snake Campgrounds, this area near Valentine offers astronomical views which can’t be seen from cities with light pollution.
After spending the evening at The Niobrara Lodge, we woke up early to drive three hours to Nebraska’s Landmark Country to see both Chimney Rock and Scotts Bluff National Monument.
Once we arrived in town, we stopped for lunch at Flyover Brewing Company, the first brewery in the Nebraska Panhandle. They make the best pizza, sandwiches, salads and hummus in town, and take pride in the beer they brew. Their equipment is made in Lincoln, and their malt and sugar beets are grown in Nebraska.
Fun Fact: The foam on a Flyover Brewing Co. beer contains the most flavor.
After lunch we drove 20 minutes to the prominent geological formation Chimney Rock National Historic Site. Rising 300 feet above the surrounding North Platte River Valley, there is an interactive Visitors Center to learn about the brave pioneers who traveled through this land on their way along the Oregon, California, and Mormon Trails.
About 30 minutes from Chimney Rock is Papa Moon Winery & Cider House offering a family-friendly environment, wine and cider tour. Visitors can order house-crafted cider and wine tastings to enjoy outside on the beautiful grounds.
For dinner The Steel Grill in the town of nearby Gering, is a lively tavern offering American BBQ, prime rib and steak salads in a sports bar setting.
We stayed overnight at the Monument Inn and Suites before driving a short distance to Scotts Bluff National Monument. Towering 800 feet above the North Platte River, Scotts Bluff also served as a directional landmark to Native Americans and emigrants. There are nearly 4 miles of hiking trails, and a 1.6 mile drive up to Summit Road to take in the panoramic views on top.
Afterwards we enjoyed brunch at The Mixing Bowl owned by Jamie Meisner. With the help and influence of her Grandma Ruth, she enhances traditional Midwest dishes with a German flair. After a hearty meal, we drove through the Heartland to Denver International airport to fly home.
Even though the Nebraska Tourism Bureau’s campaign touts “Visit Nebraska, Honestly, It’s Not For Everyone,” for travelers looking to see some of the most beautiful sights in America, Nebraska is filled with surprising discoveries.