Kasos: I Loved It So Much, I Visited Twice

When travelers consider a first-time visit to the Greek Islands, the chances are that volcanic Santorini, with its incredible caldera vistas, white-washed settlements, and burnt orange sunsets at Oia, makes the island an attraction to newlyweds and couples from around the world. 

To the same degree as crowded Santorini, Mykonos is also on North America’s tourist radar. Its delightful windmills, utterly idyllic Little Venice, which slightly mimics the actual Venice, and sunbathing or open-air nightlife on Paradise Beach have made the island evoke Cylades’ splendor since the 1980s. This is different from Greece, where I grew up. 

Those who cling to the mantra “travelers, not tourists” come to Greece seeking culture, bona fide small tavernas by the sea, forgotten hiking trails, and unrushed locals. Islands unspoiled by a small tourist window and untouched by time. 

Kasos, the southernmost island of Greece’s fabled Dodecanese chain, is a sanctuary for those seeking a more relaxed, off-the-beaten-path Greek Island experience. It is small, wild, and remote, offering a breath of fresh air and a lack of mass tourism. The rugged island is Greece at its most personal, a barren island in the middle of nowhere, a world away from the package-deal vacationers. 

At Free Bar, the island’s central watering hole, you’ll meet a diverse cast of characters that embody Greek authenticity. The meeting place is a microcosm of the island’s vibrant community.

Further exploring the island, you’ll encounter crusty fishermen proudly displaying their catch of the day, a group of older men drinking thick Greek coffee while engaged in a lively game of cards, and children playing carefree. Or the clandestine cheese monger, hidden in a mountain settlement, diligently crafting the same buttery Graviera cheese that takes 12 months to mature, recipes handed down from generations past. 

Things to do

Immerse yourself in an unrushed way of life with locals in one of the five picturesque villages of Fri, Agia Marina, Poli, Arvanitohori, or Panagia, gaining insight into the islands’ identity. 

If the possibility of a remote and secluded beach all to yourself enthralls you, then Kasos is right for you. Helatros Beach is a hidden paradise on the southwest of the island. Emporios Bay’s crystal clear waters, located within walking distance from the port, provide for a relaxing swim. Boat captains bring travelers on a 40-minute ride to the soft sands of Marmara Beach on Armathia Island. 

Over 100 churches are scattered throughout the island. The crown jewel, with its mosaic floors and sweeping island vistas, is the monastery of Agios Mamas, the patron saint of shepherds and flocks, perched high on the island’s south side. 

A hiking and trekking paradise, walk the island’s seven primitive trails along beaches, traversing settlements through abandoned rural landscapes with impressive views of nearby Karpathos. Walk towards the eastern ridge of Kasos, and you’ll see ancient Greek Ellinika Grammata, inscriptions of Greek letters carved on the rocks. 

Where to Stay

Kasos remains a well-kept secret due to accommodation—or lack thereof. There are only 300 rooms for sojourners, and they fill up quickly in the high-season months of July and August. Although there is a small hotel in the Fri capital, the rest of the accommodations are in private homes, local homes, or small full-service apartments for rent. 

Cuisine and Dining 

Artisanal products, including the quaint island’s honey produced by beekeepers with wild thyme, and exceptional goat and sheep dairy products, including the island’s favorite soft and creamy steak cheese sold at family-run shops, showcase the island’s classic flavors. Bakeries serve murky Greek coffee, pies, and other Greek sweets. Many islanders make a smooth, sweet red traditional wine from the Fokiano and Kypreiko varieties. 

Warm and welcoming traditional tavernas line the Bouka harbor. Mylos Restaurant and Meltemi are two of the exceptional diners. Regional dishes include stuffed vine leaves known as dolmades, salted sardines, cuttlefish baked in local wine, grilled meats, and crayfish spaghetti. 

Getting There

Kasos is not the most accessible island, which creates an even greater allure. Most visitors arrive by ferry from Rhodes or Karpathos at the capital of Fri in the Bay of Bouka. The port also houses captivating, colorful fishing boats and restaurants lining the sea. There are also flights via Karpathos. 

The Kasiots exemplify hospitality and the cardinal Greek virtue of “philoxenia,” the love of strangers or friends with outsiders, rather than hitting familiar Greek hotspots, set sail to Greece’s carefree, remote Dodecanese outpost of Kasos, where locals welcome you with open arms.

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