Visit Lisbon, Portugal, The Journey is Everything Beautiful

A quick hour and 20-minute flight on Iberia from Madrid, and we were in Lisbon. We jumped in a taxi and headed for our Airbnb, A Charming Penthouse in Chiado. The flat is in an excellent location for walking to just about anywhere you want to go. To help us get our bearings, our rental host said, “Down is toward the river and up toward shops and plazas.” He wasn’t kidding; we were situated on a steep slant, as is the city of Lisbon.

Sightseeing

There are many incredible sights near the neighborhoods in Lisbon. The Baixa district, central Lisbon, is a very walkable area and less than a mile from Cais Sodre Train Station, home to the trains, ferry, and the metro. We stayed in Baixa Chiado, closer to popular landmarks than most neighborhoods — so we walked, and walked!

Praca do Comerico

Praco do Comerico, named during the Pombal Era, is the commercial square famous for promoting industry and people who helped rebuild the city after the 1755 earthquake that destroyed the area, then called the Royal Yard, or Terrerio do Paco. The square celebrates King Jose I, king during the city’s reconstruction, with a statue of him on his horse.

The magnificent arch, known as Arco do Rua Augusta, opens to the river and represents the triumph and glory of the city’s recovery. It is a most dramatic entrance of pride. Tourists can buy tickets to take the elevator to a spectacular viewing point.

I recommend making this square your first stop in Lisbon. It is the place to find information on attractions, tours, and transportation and to pick up a Lisboa card. I purchased a 3-day Lisboa card beforehand but didn’t find it much of a deal. The discounts on entrance fees are minimal, and the transportation is only for the train and metro, which aren’t expensive. A 1-day pass might be best, if at all.

Belem Tower and Monument of Discoveries

Belém Tower is one of the most powerful visions to come upon. We opted to walk 5 miles along the river to reach the destination. At one point, the route took us away from the water;  if this happens to you, quickly find your way back to it. Otherwise, you will be walking alongside road traffic and miss the scenery.

Along the walk, you will see interesting art objects, structures, and cafés. Finally, you will come up on the Monument of Discoveries and the Belém Tower, sitting on the water like an intense force celebrating the history of Portuguese explorers and sailors. The architectural details of the buildings are breathtaking. You can go inside both for a small fee. We climbed to the top of the Monument and took in the views from all sides.

We opted to take a TukTuk ride back to Chiado, which, although somewhat rickety, was quite entertaining, and everyone should try it once.

Jerome Monastery

Jerome Monastery is an unbelievable masterpiece directly across from the Belém Monument. The Gothic architecture commemorates the ministerial and royal commissions of the era. You may tour the inside; however, be prepared to wait in long lines.

Santa Justa Lift

The Santa Justa Lift is a 19th-century industrial elevator in the historic center of Lisbon. The lift connects the lower Baixa district to the higher Largo do Carmo. It is a beautiful structure designed by an architect who was once a student of Gustave Eiffel. It still functions if you want to take the ride up. Moreover, the best shop in Lisbon for scarves and jewelry is at the entrance for tickets at the bottom of the lift.

Alfama & Principe Real

I recommend strolling up to the neighborhoods of Alfama and Principe Real; you will see phenomenal monuments of various historical figures along the way. However, the yellow trams and the famous Tram 28 will also take you to the towns. We didn’t want to wait in lines for the tram, so we just kept hoofing it — up the steep hills!

The Castelo de S. Jorge stands on the highest hill in Alfama and is glorious to look upon from below and up close. Beware of the invasion of Peacocks once you reach the gates, as they are not shy.

The Jardim do Principe Real boasts a colossal tree with twisted branches aided by beams for support. The park is a tranquil space to enjoy a delicious gelato from Nannarella Gelati Alla Romana. The gelato shop was featured on ‘Somebody Feed Phil’ on Netflix.

The Mosaic Tile Streets

I have to say the mosaic tile streets and plazas are a sight in itself. They offer a play on the eyes in some squares; one might think the ground is bumpy, but they are actually smooth. The tiles are so beautiful and so purposefully designed. As we walked around daily, I kept thinking to myself ‘who could have built this?”

Fado

Fado is a sentimental Portuguese song of sadness, love, and emotions of life. There are dinner shows in many venues throughout Lisbon; however, I am thrilled with our choice, A Severa, where you will dine by candlelight and enjoy one of the most heartwarming performances of your life. I found myself shaking my head with immense approval, overwhelmed by the romantic aura of those on stage, as well as patrons singing along in their beautiful language.

The songs were in Portuguese, so I didn’t know the words they were singing, but I didn’t find the show sad at all. Instead, it seemed uplifting, and everyone was bursting with passion.

Dinner at A Severa was fantastic! Between the three of us, we sampled the Mackerel with Carrot Salad and the Pastel de Bacalhau — then we devoured our luscious entrees of King Prawn with couscous, Grilled Sea Bass, and Duck Leg with mushroom sauce. We paired our dinner with a Cortes de Cima Chamine Touriga Nacional. Finally, our gluttony nudged us to order the strawberry cheesecake and ice cream with nuts and salted caramel.

Cafes

Seafood Favorites

For excellent seafood and dining options, head to Rua das Portas de Santo Antão, near the Restaurandores Square and Metro station. The street is pedestrian-only, with restaurants galore. You will have your pick of places to eat. We ate at a traditional Portuguese restaurant next to the Lisbon Wine Hotel. Lunch was a scrumptious seafood platter of sardines, salmon, swordfish, and tuna with seafood rice and a bottle of Casa Ferreirinha Esteva Douro.

There were many cafes throughout the city that we fell in love with as well, including Baia do Peixa at Praca de Comerica for more fish dishes and views of the water. Another favorite was Mar AO Largo near Rossio Square, which served delightful Cod Cakes, tomato rice, and garlic shrimp.

 

Time Out Market

Additionally, Time Out Market, another feature on ‘Somebody Feed Phil’ on Netflix, is in a class of its own. Walk around and take your pick of ethnic cuisine from all over the world. You could eat there every night for months without repeating your dish. The delectable coconut and caramel gelato at Gelato Davvero and the excellent Aperol Spritz bar were two memorable stops.

Furthermore, the best wine shop, Garrafeira Nacional, is also located inside the market — this is where we ended up each night to purchase our nightcap bottle to enjoy on our Airbnb balcony.

Coffee and Early Morning Bites

For breakfast, I especially loved Can The Can. They open early, and it’s near the Tagus River at Praca de Comerica. Order a cappuccino, a ham and cheese croissant, and fresh tomatoes and eggs. They also sell an abundance of canned fish, which make great souvenirs. A few other great stops for morning coffee and pastries are A Padaria Portuguesa and Pastelaria Snack Bar Recife.

 

Side Trips

Cascais

Cascais is a coastal town about a half-hour train ride west of Lisbon. The best reason to take this side trip is to escape the busy streets and walk along the sea for a while. Take the train from Cais Sodre station to Cascais; upon exit, you will be steps from the beach.

Walk through Centro Historico to check out the shops and explore the renovated 16th-century citadel, now home to the luxury 5-start hotel, Pestana Cidadela Cascais – Pousada Arts District.

For lunch, I recommend the Duche Bar on the water to take in the gorgeous scenery. Then, walk the pathway alongside the beach to Sao Joao do Estoril, a 3.5-mile one-way journey that boasts mansions and villas, boaters and beachgoers. If you are a beach person – spend the day in the water.
We took time admiring and strolling, ultimately making a few wrong turns. If this happens to you, find your way to Monte Estoril station. From there, several lines run back to Lisbon, so if you notice you are not headed to Cais Sodre station, take the Rossio Square/Restauradores station exit.

Sintra

Sintra is a resort town in the Sintra Mountains and is a spectacular place to visit and a hiker’s heaven. The main tourist attraction, however, is the Pena Palace, and rightfully so.

We took a taxi, about a 35-minute drive from Chiado, which was around $35 one-way. The train will get you there in the same amount of time for cheaper, but we just felt like a cab. However, a word to the wise: if you get a driver, ask them to drop you at the train station in Sintra. From there, you can take a bus or taxi up the hill to Pena Palace, The Moorish Castle, and the Historic Center.

If you arrive in town early enough, you must stop for a cup of coffee and a bite at the Cafe at Chalet Saudade before heading up to the palace — it is likely the loveliest cafe I’ve ever been to.

After coffee, we found our way to the train station and took a cab up the hill and through the forest to the ticket office for entrance to the palace. Having bought tickets ahead of time, we didn’t have to wait in that line. But once we passed that gate, we discovered that not being with a tour group meant we were left to our own devices. Some people were waiting to get in vans to take them to the palace entrance while others were walking up. Having no idea how far we needed to go, we picked up the pace and cruised on foot. We made it seconds before our scheduled time; it turns out the walk was just under a half mile — one steep trek, though. Get there early.

Inside, flashes of history crossed my mind as we toured each room of the Pena Palace. We applauded 19th-century Romanticism Architecture and the colorful terraces of yellow and red. The castle is a massive, vibrant vision reminiscent of Lisbon rulers and the Portuguese past and present.
A short walk from Pena Palace is The Morrish Castle, another incredible sight and journey through history.

We ended our time in Sintra with lunch at Passione Pizza, where the food was as tasty as the waiter was endearing. The patio was adorable and intimate, and the staff simultaneously interacted with their neighbors and us across the pathway as they bustled around, chuckling and flawlessly setting the outdoor tables. And although we thoroughly enjoyed the Octopus and Grilled Cod, the pizzas from the kitchen also looked astounding.

Almada

On our last day, we took the ferry to the opposite side of the river from Lisbon, a 15-minute ride, to the city of Almada. The Ponte 25 de Abril Bridge connects the two towns, and the ferry provides the best close-up views of its sensational engineering.

Once in Almada, we walked along the piers and out to the docks, dazzled by the best views of Lisbon bouncing across the waters. I can’t imagine how many professional photographers take advantage of the exceptional scene.

An attraction in Almada is the Christ the King statue, a Catholic Monument overlooking Lisbon. To get a closer look, the statue is accessible by car, bus, the Boco do Vento elevator, or by foot. Though the 164-foot elevator was intriguing, it was out of order that day. So, in the essence of time, we observed from afar.

In addition, the red lighthouse, a part of the Naval Museum of Almada, is another landmark on the water, and it is a great photo opportunity.

Side street cafes in Almada are charming; however, most are cash only, so be prepared. We made reservations at Ponto Final for lunch (which takes credit cards), featured on the Netflix series ‘Somebody Feed Phil.’ (You probably see a pattern here; we are obsessed with that show!) The restaurant sits on the water, and there are no rails between you and the edge! We wallowed in delights from the sea, such as Red Mullet, Mackerel, and Cod, with two large cauldron-sized portions of bubbling tomato rice — and a bottle of Luis Pato Bago/Touriga Nacional. It was a wondrous experience from start to finish.

Conclusion

Needless to say, Lisbon tugged at my soul; therefore, leaving wasn’t easy. But somehow, my inner self packed up my clothes, along with my memories — ones I will always hold dear. As we drove to the airport, I looked out the back window of the Uber with tears in my eyes. The ornate architecture, the history, the people, the cafes, the seafood, the wine, and the water danced through my head in concert. I was sad to leave, but to love a place that much must mean being there made me better. That said, I find solace in knowing that Lisbon exists.