Plaza Blanco is a treasure in the Land of Enchantment

Having been a docent at the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum, I was fortunate to visit both the legendary artist’s residences in Abiquiu, New Mexico, a place that’s known for its towering rock walls, vivid red and yellow hills, jagged white cliffs and vast blue skies. O’Keeffe was inspired by this rugged  landscape and many of its elements became subjects in her work.

The artist made New Mexico her permanent home in 1949. She continued to paint and draw, as well as make pottery, until her failing eyesight forced her to retire in 1984. Two years later, she passed away at the age of 98, in Santa Fe. Her ashes were scattered in the wind at the top of her beloved Pedernal Mountain, an image which is frequently featured in her paintings. 

Plaza Blanco is an enchanting place. Photo by Debbie Stone

Climb into the slot canyons for more interesting discoveries. Photo by Debbie Stone

Leaning inward. Photo by Debbie Stone

To celebrate this internationally renowned artist, the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum opened in 1997, and is the only museum in the world dedicated to an American female artist. It’s also the most frequented art museum in the state, and a top attraction in Santa Fe. 

It was in the museum that I first came across one of O’Keeffe’s “White Place” paintings. I was struck by its stark beauty and learned that the work had been inspired by a specific location – Plaza Blanco. 

Though it took me a number of years, I finally made the trip to Plaza Blanco. It’s about an hour north of Santa Fe in Abiquiu and sits on property that belongs to Dar Al Islam Mosque. The Mosque generously allows people to visit it with no charge, though you will need to register online ahead of time in order to get the gate access code.

Once you pass through the two gates, and veer right, you’ll see a small parking area and a sign indicating “Plaza Blanco.” If you are familiar with O’Keeffe’s “White Place” paintings, you’ll recognize the formations. The bleached white, limestone rock behemoths rise to 500 feet in certain areas and they twist, turn and soar towards the sky. Some appear marked and scarred, as if from ancient battles. Others seem so formidable from the front, but then you walk around to another side and the rocks look precariously piled up, as if they could fall any minute with a gust of wind. Many are full of nooks and crannies that almost beg to be peered into.

Georgia O’Keeffe. The White Place-A Memory, 1943, 1943. Oil on canvas, 30 x 20 inches. Private Collection. Loan, Private Collection. C

Though there isn’t a marked trail, there are worn pathways to follow, leading you right up to the formations. Some will take you to a dead end, unless you are willing to climb and scale the rocks to enter little slot canyons. I did this a few times as I was curious to see what might be in the next chamber and what kind of views I might find. If you plan to pursue this activity, make sure you are wearing sturdy shoes and take your time navigating your route. 

I was mesmerized by the formations, their shapes and the colors, which changed with the sun and shadows. The rocks are majestic, yet the place offers peace and serenity amid such a dramatic scene. And with only two other people wandering about, I felt I had this secluded locale to myself. 

Dar al Islam. Photo by Debbie Stone

I can understand how O’Keeffe loved to gaze at these rocks, even camp here, while she painted them in her own modernist style. The place has an otherworldly and mystical, desert beauty to it that makes it so enchanting. 

After my time at Plaza Blanco, I drove over to look at nearby Dar Al Islam Mosque, which sits atop a mesa. The Mosque opened in 1982 and it welcomes visitors, though when I was there, it wasn’t open. I strolled around, admiring the adobe buildings and mused at how well they fit in with the aesthetic of the unique landscape.

Dar al Islam > Plaza Blanca

Wander through this picturesque landscape. Photo by Debbie Stone