The Pairing Project: State Foods with State Wine – Part 4 of 10

As I meandered through the states in part 4 of the pairing project I started to mix stuff up — quite literally. Most of these dishes are about combining, stirring, and bringing flavors out of flavors. It is fascinating how ingredients masterfully come together in one pot. I was delighted by the distinct differences each creation gave me and marveled at how the wine pairings made sense in the mix. There are a lot of moving parts in this section, so grab your knives, measuring cups, and spoons and be prepared to chop, blend, and pour.

Louisiana

Jambalaya is a dish with a history lesson dating back to the 18th century. Spain owned Louisiana from 1762 to 1800, followed by France until 1803. We all know what came after that: the infamous acquisition by the United States of America, the Louisiana Purchase. Well, that also meant the influx of immigrants with roots and culinary influence embedded in the region for decades — ever heard of Spanish Paella? Furthermore, the French intermingled their spices and Jambalaya became the dish that blends good things.

There is no one recipe for Jambalaya, but if you break down the word, it technically means ham and rice (Jamon in Spanish or Jambon in French and Ya, a term in South Africa for rice). Any meat, seafood, or vegetable is allowed in the pot with white rice. There are red sauces called Creole and brown sauces called Cajun, but it doesn’t appear anyone monitors the recipe. I made a tomato-based version with Andouille sausage, chicken, and shrimp — I added peppers, onions, celery, and a whole bunch of spices to the mix.

I knew the dish would call for a wine that could tame the spicy heat but hold its own and not be diminished. Landry Vineyards showed up with their Blanc Du Bois, a white French American Hybrid grape, and it was an absolute genius pairing. The dry white wine, elevated by notes of tropical fruit, juicy peaches, and a zesty citrus stamp, gracefully stayed on pace with the tomatoey bliss, giving each bite and sip their moment in the spotlight.

Landry Vineyards was established in 1999, and their first 2 acres were planted to Blanc Du Bois. After Hurricane Kachina, owners Libby and Jeff Landry relocated from Folsom, Louisiana, to West Monroe. Their now 50 acres in the northern hill country is home to their vineyards, winery, tasting room, cottages, and camping sites. They welcome you to stay and play on their beautiful property for tastings, tours, concerts, and events — mind you, if you spend the night, you may have to wrestle me for Grape Escape Cottage #2.

 

Oklahoma

Black-eyed peas, Oklahoma’s number one vegetable crop, is actually a legume, not a pea. There are several stories about why the nutrient-rich dish is near and dear to the state. The crop’s roots go back to the Civil War and were a staple that sustained many during the era. One story goes that Union soldiers at the time would steal food but thought black-eyed peas were hog food, so they left it — hence, people were able to survive on it. There is also a strong connection to enslaved African Americans who rationed the crop during challenging times as it was cheap and easy to cultivate. The legume became synonymous with resilience in the face of adversity — one reason it is consumed on New Year’s Day as a symbol of good luck.

So, in a large skillet, I combined the pearls of fortune with chopped celery, jalapenos, garlic, onion, chicken broth, red pepper flakes, and bacon — because everything is better with bacon. I had never attempted this quick, flavorful side and realized it could quickly transform into a whole meal.

I contacted Pecan Creek Winery in Oklahoma for help pairing a wine with the humble creation. They promptly sent me their Estate Reserve Marley’s Merlot. The complexity of the wine was in ideal alignment with that of the dish. While the alcohol was at a reasonable level of 13%, it drank much like a dessert with candied apple, dark chocolate, cinnamon, and baking spices at the forefront from the influence of toasty Missouri and Romanian oak. The pairing was lovely, and I savored each bite and sip, discovering new flavors with every mouthful.

Pecan Creek Winery opened its doors in 2014 and is committed to making wine from its estate vineyard and solely from grapes grown in the state. Bob Wickizer, a physicist and ordained Episcopal priest, is the winemaker. His partner and retired pediatrician, D.I. Wilkinson, with a background in Texas farming, is the grape grower. Obviously, this combo started with too much brain power to fail. Their work is attributed to their beautiful friendship and passion for producing quality wine from Oklahoma soil. They encourage wine lovers to visit their tasting room in Muskogee; they will proudly provide a fun and educational experience.

 

Missouri

From Kansas City, hugging the state’s western border, to St. Louis on the eastern edge, the irresistible scent of barbeque wafts through the air. The BBQ phenomenon in the show-me state can be traced back to steamboat cook, Henry Perry, in the 1900s. Perry, known for his resourcefulness, would salvage discarded slabs from Kansas City stockyards and slow-smoke them over harvested hardwood trees. A similar tale unfolds in St. Louis, where ribs were the leftover gristle (with a bit of meat) given to enslaved people, who would then cook the pieces for extended periods and season them with spices and sauces to enhance their flavor.

While I chose to make St. Louis-style ribs for the project, paying homage to both sides of the state regarding the sauces was necessary. Each city includes varying amounts of apple cider, mustard, ketchup, brown sugar, and spices, but the recipe I used for Kansas City also used molasses and crushed tomatoes. Each sauce had a nice tangy punch, with St. Louis on the lighter side and K.C. much thicker in consistency. I oven-baked the ribs for a few hours and basted each with one of the sauces.

I knew I wanted to call upon a winery in Augusta for this pairing; established in 1980, the appellation is the first American Viticultural Area (AVA) in the United States which helped pave the way for countless other AVAs to follow. Augusta’s unique climate and soil composition create the perfect conditions for growing grapes, producing high-quality wines that have garnered national and international acclaim. The Sommelier in me was buzzing with anticipation about the opportunity to taste a wine from the area; to me, it was like putting a face with a name.

Therefore, I contacted Augusta Winery, and without hesitation, they sent me their 2019 Chambourcin, a French American hybrid grape. A unique aspect of Chambourcin is that its juice is pink or red, called Teinturier (most red grapes have clear juice, getting their color from the maceration with the skins). The wine was full of juicy red berries and plum flavors, much like a red Zinfandel. The silky mouthfeel, zippy acid, and notes of red licorice, jam, cumin, nutmeg, and white pepper were positively in sync with the gooey tart and sweet sauces.

Founded in 1988 by Tony Kooyumjian, Augusta Winery is a charming gem nestled in the picturesque town of Augusta, overlooking the Missouri River Valley. Step into the tasting room and sample a wide range of award-winning wines from crisp whites to bold reds. The winery takes pride in its staff, who are always ready to guide visitors through their tasting experience and share insights into the winemaking techniques that make Augusta wines so special. It’s a place where wine lovers can truly immerse themselves in the art of winemaking.

 

Kansas

Kansas is closely associated with a dish that might seem a bit rebellious – chicken noodle soup over mashed potatoes. This comforting starch bowl was a product of necessity and a symbol of the region’s resourcefulness. Its significance dates back to the Great Depression era when families had to make do with whatever ingredients they had on hand. The combination of chicken noodle soup and mashed potatoes (that likely provided leftovers for days!) remains a beloved meal of the state.

As I shredded the chicken, added celery and carrots, and let the flavors simmer in the broth before adding the egg noodles, I couldn’t help but feel homey and content. After peeling, boiling, and mashing the potatoes, I unapologetically poured the soup over them and took a bite. The flavors mingled in my mouth, and I concluded that I liked it. Yes, it would have been a more appropriate meal for a cold Kansas winter day instead of 105 degrees in Arizona. Nonetheless, it provided solace for my stomach and a warm connection to the region.

Somerset Ridge Vineyard and Winery sent their Sonnenblume Semi-Sweet Traminette to stand up to the carb-o-rama concoction. The Traminette grape is a cross between the popular German grape Gewurztraminer and the French American Hybrid Joannes Seyve 23.416. The wine’s ripe mango, apricot, apple, honey notes, intense floral aromas, and muscat spice seemed to waltz in harmony with the sweet carrots and earthy broth.

Owners of Somerset, Dennis and Cindy Reynolds, shared a passion for wine and a common desire to work together in the industry. Their professional backgrounds prepared them for the establishment of Somerset Ridge. Dennis, a trial attorney with a family history in farming, and Cindy, a business executive, began planting the vineyard in 1998 and established the winery in 2001. The vineyard now has over 9000 grapevines, and the winery produces over 5000 cases annually.

Somerset Ridge is the first Kansas City winery established in Miami County since statewide prohibition in Kansas was implemented in 1881. Before prohibition, the area around Somerset was a significant winemaking region. Since the opening of Somerset Ridge, the area has been viticulturally revitalized, encompassing numerous vineyards and the Somerset Wine Trail. The Reynolds welcome you to their property to taste, picnic, and, on select days, enjoy the food trucks and live music.

 

Minnesota

Minnesota, a land of breathtaking landscapes and kind-hearted people, is also a treasure trove for home cooking. Among the dishes that have come to symbolize the North Star State is the iconic wild rice soup. With its robust flavors and comforting aroma, this creamy, soul-soothing delight is a culinary gem that graces many a Minnesota household and restaurant. And there are rumors that some even dare to top their pizzas with it!

Wild rice, a native grain that flourishes in the lakes and rivers of Minnesota, holds a deep cultural significance. The Ojibwe people, who have nurtured this land for centuries, have been harvesting and savoring wild rice for generations. This grain, often referred to as the ‘caviar of the Midwest’ for its intricate flavor and nutritional value, is a testament to the rich heritage of Minnesota.

The soup recipe was easy to follow. I blended the vegetable broth, carrots, and celery with a pinch of thyme, salt, and pepper and generously mixed it with the wild rice. The base often calls for a roux or cream; the recipe I used suggested evaporated milk to thicken.

I wanted a robust wine with abundant earth to pair with this soup. Luckily, I have a friend of a friend of a friend with a winery in Minnesota who knew precisely the wine. Owner of Mousse Sparkling Wine Co., Josie Boyle, sent me their “Les Bulles Nordiques” Petillant Naturel (aka Pèt-Nat) made from hand-harvested Itasca grapes. The Pèt-Nat method involves bottling the wine before the primary fermentation has finished, resulting in a softer fizz.

The wine’s terrific minerality and refreshing touch made perfect sense with the creamy soup. Its crisp, wild yeast-like finish uniquely contrasted the rich flavors of the wild rice. Moreover, the wine had a bottle cap closure, and once recapped, it popped off on its own, perhaps challenging the rice to a who’s wilder match!

Mousse Sparkling Wine Co. is the only Minnesota winery specializing in locally made sparkling wine. Boyle and her business partner and husband, Micah Lennox, are both native to Minnesota and are making award-winning small-batch wines. They love showcasing locally grown ingredients in their craft through their wines. Although Boyle worked as a winemaker across the globe, including New Zealand, she knew she wanted to make wine in her home state.

Josie and Micah now make their wine in the quaint town of Jordan, just beyond Minneapolis’s southwestern suburbs. They encourage you to visit them among the banks of the Minnesota River and indulge in their bubbly creations.

In part 4, I visited central, south-central, and one northern state and noticed they all love mixing food up in a pot. Furthermore, it was refreshing to witness that the people of these states are all blessed with the ‘nice’ gene. Everyone was so willing to help and happy to participate in the project. While I continue to embark upon my culinary adventure heading east, I truly hope our paths cross again. 20 states down, 30 to go!