Skip the Big Ship: What I Loved About Alaska Day Cruising

I tried an Alaskan cruise once – the kind with fancy buffets, towels folded like swans, and nightly magic shows. It wasn’t for me. 

I wanted to get up close and personal with this wild remote state, so I’ve returned several times to traverse Alaska by foot, bush plane, and small boats. 

In June, I headed to Seward to explore with Kenai Fjords Tours. I joined a daylong tour and a dinner cruise, leaving plenty of time for hiking, strolling through town, and drinking in the mountain views. 

SEWARD, ALASKA

Seward is one of Alaska’s oldest communities, located 125 miles south of Anchorage. The Seward Highway is a warmup for the senses of the beauty that lies ahead. Soaring snowcapped mountains, vivid wildflowers, and sparkling waters of Turnagain Arm make the two-and-a-half-hour drive fly by.

 

WINDSONG LODGE – A BASE FOR SEWARD ADVENTURES

Nestled in the woods along the Resurrection River, Seward Windsong Lodge makes a perfect base for exploring the surrounding Kenai Fjords National Park. Low buildings scattered in the forest give this place an upscale summer camp vibe. There’s a free 10-minute shuttle ride into town, making it possible to stay without a car if you arrive by train. 

My spacious room with timber-style furniture led to a balcony surrounded by trees. I kept the door open to feel the fresh air and listen to the birds. Crossing the road leads to the river, where rushing water and mountain views await. 

Resurrection Roadhouse, the onsite restaurant, was my go-to for a cocktail at the end of the day followed by fresh Alaskan salmon. The deck has breathtaking views of Mount Marathon, and the long summer days made dining al fresco possible even at 9 p.m. A roaring fire in the lobby lounge made the cool mornings feel more like Fall than late June. 

EXPLORING SEWARD

Staying on land gave me time to explore this coastal city. Seward sits on the Kenai Peninsula, spilling into Resurrection Bay. The walking paths near the harbor kept drawing me back for the mountain views across the water.

The heart of the town, Fourth Avenue, is lined with shops and restaurants. Small flower gardens, maintained by locals, add splashes of color, along with a dozen or so murals throughout Seward. Historic buildings from the early 1900s add to the charm. 

It’s easy to lose track of time with 18 hours of daylight, but my stomach reminded me it was dinnertime. The Flamingo Lounge was just the spot for a local beer and “Bucket of Butts,” chunks of quickly fried halibut. The Flamingo has a decade’s long history as Seward’s beloved watering hole. New owners Matt and KellyAnn Cope breathed new life into this trendy spot with an inventive cocktail program and local fare. 

KENAI FJORDS NATIONAL PARK

Seward is the jumping off point for a bucket list of adventures, from hiking and blueberry picking to dog sledding and kayaking. The best way to see the rich abundance of marine life is to get out onto the water on a day cruise. These 150-passenger ships can maneuver into narrow inlets, getting a front row view of the many glaciers and marine mammals.

I opted for the full day Kenai Fjords Tours Northwest Glacier Tour – an excursion that reaches deeper into Kenai Fjords National Park that any other cruise. Motoring out of Resurrection Bay, the water changed from stormy gray to turquoise. Looking around at the grass-tufted sea cliffs jutting out of the water, it was only the cold wind that reminded me I was near the Arctic Circle and not in some tropical paradise.

Porpoises raced beside the boat, and puffins plunged their orange beaks into the water. We slowed to visit a colony of sea lions, listening as they barked and growled. I kept my eyes trained for water spouts on the horizon – a telltale sign of whales in the area. 

NORTHWESTERN GLACIER

When we reached the glacier, the captain turned off the engine and a hush fell over the boat. Towering blocks of sky-blue ice heaved off massive chunks, exploding into the ocean like dynamite. We drifted for a while, taking it all in as seals and seagulls watched from slabs of ice alongside the boat. 

This remote spot, inaccessible to large cruise ships, had a sacred feel. Only about 500,000 people have ever seen the Northwestern Glacier. In comparison, four million tourists visit the Grand Canyon annually. 

HUMPBACK WHALES

We left the glacier, searching for the main attraction – whales. We spotted a pod of humpback whales bubble feeding. This learned behavior occurs when several whales gather and 

blow bubbles near the surface to trap the fish. The captain dropped a hydrophone into the water so we could hear the underwater bubbling. 

Every few minutes, as if putting on a show, these magnificent 25-ton creatures breached in unison. We spent several hours watching the whales blow, dive, fluke their tales, and float to rest. Eventually I put down my camera, just wanting to take in this awesome sight.

SUSTAINABLE WHALE WATCHING 

Our Kenai Fjords Tours captain doubled as a naturalist. I’m not sure how he narrated and drove the boat at the same time, because the level of detail and enthusiasm he shared was impressive. He explained how Tufted Puffins dive and why sea otters roll as he maneuvered the boat into narrow passageways for a closer look. The knowledge he shared was a highlight of the tour.

This educational component is just one of the guidelines of Whale SENSE, a voluntary program that trains and encourages tour operators to follow responsible wildlife watching. 

DINING WITH A VIEW

There were no ice sculptures or unlimited buffets, but the tiny galley on our small cruise boat turned out warm cinnamon rolls to start the day, and flavorful, filling burritos at lunch. Just when I started to feel a pang of hunger in the afternoon, just-baked chocolate chip cookies magically appeared. 

I didn’t need to pack any fancy clothes for the dinner cruise. I savored every bite of my crab cakes when I wasn’t dashing out onto the deck for the latest wildlife sighting. The cookies made a repeat appearance – the perfect ending to a blissful dinner with Alaskan wildlife entertainment.

HIKING EXIT GLACIER

A free morning gave me time to explore on foot. The Exit Glacier Trailhead is a quick 10-minute drive from Windsong Lodge, although there was a slight delay as we pulled off the road to marvel at a majestic moose, peacefully grazing just feet away.

This hiking area is the only part of Kenai Fjords National Park reachable by foot. The trail starts off in a cottonwood forest, crosses a river, and then meanders up the hillside, surrounded by mountains. The overlook offers a panoramic view of the glacier spilling down from the Harding Icefield.

FINDING LUXURY ON A SMALL ALASKAN CRUISE

The true luxury on this trip was the exclusive access to wild Alaska: sea otters snuggling their young, whales calling out underwater, and icy blue glaciers moving before my eyes. Even without the amenities offered on a larger ship, my small Alaskan cruise with Kenai Fjords Tours was extravagant in every sense of the word.