Soak in style at The Springs

I just had one of the best nights of sleep ever! This is a remarkable feat coming from someone with insomnia issues, who often tosses and turns the hours away as her brain refuses to turn itself off. So, you’ll forgive me if I sound giddy with enthusiasm.

I credit this heavenly night’s rest to The Springs Resort & Spa. Located in the charming little hamlet of Pagosa Springs, Colorado, the property is known for having the most geothermal hot-spring-fed pools in the state.

When I say you have options when it comes to soaking, that’s an overstatement. There are actually twenty-four 100% mineral-water pools, including a mineral-water swimming pool, with temps ranging from 83-114 degrees Fahrenheit. Feel free to try them all because each offers a unique experience. It’s not only the temperature, but the size, shape, location and even the view that differs from one pool to another. You can be assured you’ll find at least one to satisfy your comfort level.

The “Great Pagosa Springs” was discovered hundreds of years ago by inhabitants of the Southern Ute Tribe. The Native Americans held it in great esteem for its healing and rejuvenating qualities. “Pagosa” is the Ute word for “healing waters.”

Later, the first settlers in the area came upon it after noticing human footprints leading from the bubbling ground. Then in the mid-1800s, the U.S. Army got in on the act and began studying the medicinal effects of the springs, concluding that the waters were highly beneficial.

The first bath house was built in 1881, four years after Pagosa was designated a town, and visitors came from all over to “take the waters.” This boon lasted for several decades, but once rail service to Pagosa ceased and the field of medicine made notable advances, health tourism declined. It wasn’t until the 1950s that interest in this pursuit resumed.

The 50s saw the rise of motels and The Springs Resort, which was originally called The Spring Inn, began to attract travelers. One of its most famous visitors was John Wayne, who came to Pagosa to film the movie, “The Cowboys.”

Though the Inn went out of business in the 1980s, it got a second chance at life when it was purchased by new owners in the early 90s. If you were to have soaked at the place back then, you would have had your choice of only four plastic tubs, which were fed by a garden hose and often corroded.

The Great Pagosa Spring, which sits outside the resort’s entrance building, actually holds the title of “World’s Deepest Measured Geothermal Hot Spring.” It was measured at one time to a whopping 1,002 feet deep. Admire it, but know that it’s much too hot for soaking. The spring’s major role is feeding the geothermic mineral water to each of the twenty-four soaking pools.

A sign outside each of the pools gives the temperature of the water, and these temps are checked at various times of the day and altered accordingly. I felt like Goldilocks, as I sampled each, eventually finding my favorites like The Cliffs, which is reached by a watery pathway leading across the Golden Pond. Or Top O’ The Morning, with its waterfalls. I also loved Twilight, tucked into a quiet corner, with its view of the San Juan River. And I had fun in several of the pools right on the river’s edge, where I could get an up-close look at the kayakers coming down the river. There’s also access to the river in “the burg” when you want to cool off between soaks for some contrast bathing.

Conveniently located hydration stations are placed throughout the area and beverage servers are on hand to fetch you a libation. When hunger strikes, head to the onsite Barefoot Grill for some grub.

The pools are open to the public year-round on a daily basis. Hotel guests receive complimentary privileges with 24-hour access, along with comp robes, towels and entrance to the adult-only Relaxation Terrace. Yes, Virginia, that means you can soak whenever the mood strikes. I took full advantage of this perk, soaking in the afternoon of my arrival, at night and then again in the early morning before departure. It was the evening soak that contributed to my deep slumber – that and all the fresh Colorado mountain air. I remember feeling utterly relaxed before I went to bed, and then nothing once my head hit the pillow. I awoke the next morning, refreshed and without the usual bags under my eyes.

Speaking of sleeping, the resort offers several styles of accommodations, including Classic, Deluxe and Luxury. Classic rooms are located in the original Spring Inn Motel building, closest to the Bathhouse and soaking pools. They are the perfect choice for budget-minded travelers. If you want to up the ante and be near the Great Pagosa Mother Spring, opt for the Deluxe double queen or king rooms that also feature a stocked kitchenette.

Go hog wild with one of the resort’s luxury suites. The “O” Suite, for example is named after famous visitor Oprah Winfrey. The elegantly appointed two-room accommodation boasts one bedroom with king-size bed, master bath with hot tub, jetted shower and private sauna, oversized living area with queen-size sleeper sofa, dining space, bar, kitchenette and second bathroom. Step out on the balcony for gorgeous views of the pools, the river and majestic San Juan Mountains.

Guests can also take advantage of the resort’s complimentary activities, including Aqua, Gentle Flow and Restorative Yoga classes, Guided Meditation, River Walk & Stretch and Forest Bathing Hike. And every Tuesday and Saturday, you can jive to live music in the soaking pool area.

If you’re able to drag yourself away from The Springs – and that can be a challenge – the quaint downtown area of Pagosa Springs is walkable, with an array of shops, cafes and watering holes. Try Pagosa Baking Company for homemade breakfast goodies that you can enjoy out on the sunny patio or take them to go for a picnic down near the river. Head to Kip’s Grill & Cantina for Baja style street tacos and a pomegranate margarita. For dinner, reserve a table at Alley House Grille, where you’ll savor such dishes as grilled ahi, organic salmon, duck pot pie, Colorado rack of lamb and more. Save room for the Mixed Berry Cobbler or Vanilla Bean Crème Brule.

Outdoor adventurers will be elated, as Pagosa is surrounded by three million acres of national forest and wilderness. There’s ample hiking and biking trails, and even a ski area – Wolf Creek – that on average boasts the most snow in Colorado. Or get a rod and see what’s biting on the river.

Like a magnet, though, you’ll be drawn back to The Springs to soak again. After all, it’s hard not to heed this siren’s call!

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