The Pairing Project: State Foods with State Wine – Part 3 of 10

Heading north, east, and toward the middle of our country, food shifts from spicy and cheesy to comforting and robust. So far, the pairing project has sprinkled a little culture and tradition into every recipe. Moreover, I enjoy interacting with each participating winery and appreciate their insight on what to pair with their infamous dishes. It’s been my pleasure to benefit from the fruits of their labor literally.

So, I invite you to move up and inland with me as I do some home cooking and drink wine exclusive to this part of our country. You may learn something new as I did — this was my first time with some of these grapes! 

North Dakota

Knoeplha, a German soup of flour-based dumplings, potatoes, chicken, and cream, carries a rich cultural significance. This dish, with its deep roots in German and Russian immigrant communities that settled in North Dakota in the 19th and 20th centuries, is more than just a recipe. It’s a testament to the resilience and heritage of these communities, quickly becoming a cherished part of the state’s culinary legacy.

Chicken is optional, and natives often make it without meat. However, after dropping my homemade bite-size dumplings into the low-boiling pot of thick vegetable stew, I chose to add shredded chicken. I can understand why this warm and filling meal is desirable for the cold days up in the region.

Mr. Randy Albrecht, the visionary owner of Wolf Creek Winery in North Dakota, didn’t hesitate to recommend the perfect wine for pairing with Knoephla. He generously sent me his 2020 Sakakawea Sunshine, crafted from Muscat grapes. The viscosity of the food and wine were in perfect harmony, enhancing each other’s flavors. The dry white wine, with its notes of tropical fruit and juicy peaches, was the ultimate comfort blanket for the dish.

Wolf Creek Winery is nestled in a beautiful bay of Lake Sakakawea near Coleharbor, North Dakota. The owners’ dreams of creating a winery have blossomed into over 15 years of sharing their boutique wines with the state and beyond. The space is growing; production could be at 10,000 bottles this year. You can order custom bottle labels and rent the venue for weddings and events. 

Wyoming

Wyoming, a paradise for anglers, is blessed with its pristine lakes, rivers, and streams brimming with cutthroats, rainbow, and brook trout. The remote backcountry reveals some of the most untouched, unspoiled areas to fish. There are spots where you can feel a profound connection with nature, far from the trappings of civilization. Even if you’re not a fishing enthusiast, the state beckons you to appreciate its natural beauty and savor the freshest catch of the day!

You guessed it, Rocky Mountain Trout is my featured dish for the state. I’d love to say I caught it myself in one of the magnificent bodies of water surrounded by spectacular mountainous landscapes, but I had to settle for the grocery store. I seasoned the fillets with salt, pepper, and basil and pan-fried them in a few tablespoons of oil. I thought about the fisher people and hunters in these parts and decided it appropriate to add a side of cowboy caviar, a delicious blend of black beans, corn and chickpeas in a lime dressing.

The Wyo Wine from Table Mountain Vineyards (TMV), made from cold-hardy Frontenac Gris grapes, was the selected pairing for the trout. The oily texture of the fish matched the coat of honey and tropical fruits like banana, pineapple, and apricot in the wine. Additionally, the wine’s complexity and slight sweetness balanced the corn and citrus notes of the side.

About an hour north of Cheyenne in Huntley, TMV makes wine from 100% Wyoming-grown grapes. Owner Patrick Zimmerer grows hybrid grapes that can withstand the challenging climate. Zimmerer did his college thesis on vineyards in Wyoming while studying agriculture, and the rest is history. While the family farm has been around since the 1920s, the vineyard came into fruition in the early 2000s and now has over 10,000 vines. The winery welcomes guests to its tasting room and has fun giving vineyard tours and accommodating groups. 

South Dakota

Chislic, the popular cubed meat on a stick in South Dakota, is more than just a dish; it’s a cultural icon. Introduced by German-Russian immigrants in the 1800s, it has become a staple. The town of Freeman, affectionately known as Chislic Circle, celebrates this ‘culinary curiosity’ with festivals. Bars and restaurants across the region have their unique variations, offering a choice of lamb, venison, goat, or beef, each with its own set of dipping sauces.Lucky for me, I am a carnivore. I went with my favorite, lamb. I cut it into pieces and marinated it overnight in zesty Italian dressing and Dorothy Lynch French Salad Dressing. The next day, with a bit of garlic salt and 2 inches of oil, I seared the meat in a pan for 1-2 minutes per side and served it as an appetizer with hot sauce. The dish can be a main course or starter—whatever suits your mood in the Mount Rushmore State. 

I reached out to Eldon Nygaard, owner of Valiant Winery & Distillery in Vermillion, South Dakota, who warmly embraced pairing his Full Throttle Cabernet Sauvignon with my version of Chislic. While chatting, he even welcomed me to visit and stay at their bed and breakfast on Valiant’s property—you meet the nicest people over food and wine.

The full-bodied Cabernet ‘jacked-up’ (as they say at the winery) with American Hybrid grapes, Frontenac, Sabrevois, and Petite Pearl, along with a touch of brandy, made a great teammate for the lamb. The brambly, raisinated flavors of fig marmalade, caramelized brown sugar, and dark chocolate matched the gamey, rich succulency of the meat.

The Nygaard family has a history of homemade winemaking dating back to the 1800s. In 1996, Valiant fermented South Dakota’s first commercial wine—they are the founding family of the South Dakota commercial wine industry. Now, the 15,000-square-foot winery and ‘specialty resort’ boasts a tasting room and B&B, offering private dinners and unique experiences. 

Nebraska

Having friends from Nebraska, I was familiar with the legendary Runza — though I’d never eaten one, much less made one. The Runza is a tasty hot pocket with German-Russian roots from the 1800s. The first Runza drive-in fast-food restaurant opened in 1949 in Lincoln, Nebraska — today, there are more than 80 places to eat the state’s grab-and-go delicacy. Cornhuskers celebrate their hand-held delight, and locals say some of their fondest memories happened while enjoying the sandwich.

A traditional Runza is ground beef, green cabbage, and onion inside a yeast bread dough. To do it justice, I made the dough instead of using Rhodes thaw and bake. Some flour, sugar, fast-acting yeast, salt, milk, water, butter, eggs, and an hour to sit yielded a beautiful ball of dough — enough for 12 Runzas. I made one batch the traditional way with the addition of mozzarella cheese, then made one a bit spicier with red pepper flakes and cheddar cheese. My Nebraska friends assured me the Runza fillings are expanding, so this should not offend anyone.

The James Arthur Vineyards (JAV) folks kindly sent me their Nebraska Red to pair with the dish. The blend of American Hybrid grapes, including St. Croix, St. Vincent, and Frontenac, was a medium-bodied spicy wine with vegetal, earthy notes, black currant, and white pepper—a wonderful marriage to the green and savory meat mixture.

JAV was established in 1996 and is minutes north of Lincoln in Raymond, Nebraska. A true family endeavor, the third generation is now involved in the business, and it is evident they love what they do and doing it together. They encourage visitors to walk around the grounds and try all their wines in the tasting room—their most awarded wine is their semi-sweet Edelweiss. A party room and gift shop are also on site, so consider them for your next gathering.

Montana

Bison, a historical food staple in Montana, has a rich heritage dating back to when Native American tribes hunted this enormous creature for sustenance. The tribes in North America utilized every part of the animal, from its skin for shelter to its bones for weapons and, of course, the meat for consumption. Today, Montanan ranchers continue this tradition of sustainable farming, allowing Bison to roam freely and feed on natural grass and plants. This natural diet makes bison meat incredibly nutritious and a delicious alternative to beef.

Restaurants in Montana use Bison in various dishes, from burgers, meatloaf, and steaks to lasagnas, tacos, and salads. I chose a steak salad recipe with apple cider, honey, and Dijon mustard dressing. Although you can cook bison in numerous ways, I pan-seared each side for a few minutes, cut it into chunks, and mixed it with the tart and sweet sauce.

Montana’s climate poses a challenge for wine grapes, but with the proper care, some can thrive. Dan Murphy, a seasoned winemaker and the owner of White Raven Winery in Columbia Falls (just minutes from Glacier National Park), has proven this to be so. He guided me by sending his Montana red Marquette to pair with the Bison. The boldness of this medium to full-bodied wine, with its velvety tannins and notes of cherry compote and rich blackberries, was a sensational match for the tender yet robust beast. The spices and earthy nature of the wine enhanced the layered flavors of fruit, nectar, and pepper in the dressing, creating a truly harmonious dining experience.

Born and raised Montanans are the backbone of White Raven Winery; they proudly bring their state’s honesty and wildness to every glass. Resembling the white raven bird and its ability to observe its surroundings, the winery folks have experience in paying attention. Murphy desired to be an artisan with wine and figured out how to make it happen in the environment and land that he loves. The cabin-like tasting room has a dog-friendly patio where you can breathe the fresh mountain air and enjoy its glorious views. The folks at White Raven welcome your visit to enjoy wine, food trucks on-site, and live music, depending on the day.

These five states were the model of satiety; you will never go hungry in these parts. Furthermore, I imagine the chilly weather brings out a person’s rustic nature—throughout part 3; I kept envisioning folks foraging, hunting, and fishing, fending for themselves. And the pride and devotion to winemaking are impressive as they face some of the most challenging weather conditions of the entire country. 

From here I’m heading east, and a bit south, for part 4 and looking forward to what I’ll be cooking and drinking. 15 down, 35 to go!