Where to Wine, Eat and Sleep in Mendocino County, California

When people think of visiting Northern California wine regions, Napa and Sonoma are usually on their minds. But even further north, roughly 65 miles from Santa Rosa, up a windy road, is the eloquent Anderson Valley in Mendocino County—Pinot Noir Country, and worth the drive. Since you have to go out of your way to make this trip, you might as well couple it with a visit to the coast — another 30 miles or so up through the redwood trees. The locals call this portion of the drive ‘the tunnel to the coast.’

Lodging

Ocean Heaven Escape Airbnb

On Navarro Bluff Road, Ocean Heaven Escape is a cozy, nautical oasis with mesmerizing ocean views from every window. A few steps down to the cottage is a majestic, spacious patio where I spent most of my time gazing at the waves crashing against the rocks. I could see boat lights in the distance and wondered what the way-out-yonder sea adventurers might be doing.

Ocean Heaven Escape is the best place to wind down after the long drive through the tunnel. I only wanted to relax with a glass of wine and listen to the ocean breeze. And Victoria, being a gracious host, had a bottle of wine waiting for me. The adorable one-bedroom cottage is the ultimate chill-out experience.

Thanks to the views and stunning accommodations, my morning coffee tasted as good as my evening wine. I had some work to do, so I took full advantage of the scenery of my luxury office space. Furthermore, when I was ready to explore the area, the escape is minutes from beaches, hiking, and lookout points and about a 15-minute drive to town.

Joey’s Oceanview Airbnb

Joey’s Oceanview, on Navarro Ridge Road, is another paradise retreat with panoramic views of the water. The owner, Tracy, is a hospitality genius. She greeted me at the gate and showed me around before giving me carte blanche to my pad for the night. The apartment is private, below the owners’ residence, with ocean views just outside the windows. A few steps away on the property are a Gazebo and Adirondack chairs, where you can sit back and watch the foam from the roar of the surf.

The Airbnb is perfect for a solo traveler or couple who wants to sit back and enjoy the beauty, play a few games, do some yoga, or kick back and watch a movie. After witnessing the incredible sunset, the plush, over-stuffed couch invited me to sink in to watch Netflix while listening to the gentle wind coming off the ocean through the screen door.

Linger Longer Cabin Airbnb

Linger Longer Cabins in Philo is in the heart of the Anderson Valley’s wine country. It is the perfect location for wine tasting; on Indian Creek Road, it is minutes away from vineyards and wineries. The country farmhouse-style cabin privately sits behind the creek and up a slight hill with plenty of space for couples and families to enjoy. There are hiking trails from the property, and you will likely see deer roaming about the gardens. Linger Longer is a sanctuary and magnificent getaway for those who appreciate quiet and time with nature.

Airbnb owner Brian is easy to communicate with and always available to answer questions. He provided everything I could think of for my two days in wine country. The large modern kitchen is a dream for those who love cooking, and bar seating is great for those who like to keep the chef company while they work. Large windows showcase the wilderness outside of every room, and the snuggly living room is just what you will want after a long day of tasting. Bring a book or hunker down with an old movie — this is the place to unwind.

On The Coast

The village on the coast is lined with restaurants, art galleries, and shops; hiking trails and walking paths lead up, around, and down to the water. I started with some shopping. I love buying jewelry when I travel; it brings me back to where I’ve been when I wear different pieces.

Moreover, one of the locals said March is a great month for spotting whales from the bluffs. I meandered around and took amazing photos but wasn’t lucky enough to see a tail slap. If you are interested, plenty of whale-watching tours will take you out on the water—I only wish I had more time.

Restaurants

Flow Restaurant & Lounge is a great casual restaurant with a view. It serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, with options like prawns, fish and chips, steamed clams, and street tacos. I had a fantastic cup of creamy tomato seafood chowder.

I met Janis of Visit Mendocino for dinner at the gorgeous MacCallum House Inn, the best spot in town. Coastal residents who grew up in Mendocino purchased the historic landmark in 2002. Their ties to the community and inn keep the connection to life on the coast alive in the hallways. The restaurant serves breakfast and dinner. You can choose charming places to sit: the snug dining room with a fireplace, the side indoor cafe, or the beautiful bar or patio. We chose cafe seating and became fast friends as Janis shared stories of Mendocino.

Our server presented fresh, warm bread to the table—I never skip a bread course, especially one just out of the oven. Next, with many decadent options to choose from, we started with the Tempura Shrimp Toast with shiitake mushrooms, kumquat ponzu, cashew wasabi sauce, and Thai mango slaw, and the Pacific Rim Oysters, six on the half shell, fire-roasted jalapeño, and lime mignonette.

We chose the Pan Seared Duck with fromage blanc bread pudding, tangerine gastrique, and braised Belgian endive for one of our entrees. The medium rare, gamey succulent meat paired perfectly with the 2014 Panthea Pinot Noir. Additionally, we ordered the Saffron Risotto with sugar snap peas, leeks, arugula, mozzarella, roasted pepper salad, shaved Pennyroyal Farm Boont Corners cheese, and chive oil. Everything was full of flavor, and the service and presentation were exceptional. The restaurant also offers a five-course tasting menu with wine or whiskey pairings.

Wineries – The Anderson Valley

The wineries of Anderson Valley are scattered along 128 from Yorkville to Navarro, about 25 miles before you reach the coast. I suggest making reservations, but in these hills, things are very loose and relaxed; therefore, walk-ins are likely welcome.

Plan on eating before you begin tasting, as most wineries do not serve food. I recommend Disco Ranch, which has tapas, meats, and cheeses, and Mosswood Market Cafe & Bakery, which has paninis, wraps, salads, and fabulous coffee drinks.

The six wineries I chose to visit are family-owned, which is always my preference. The main grapes this far north are Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Gewurztraminer, which are beautifully showcased in each winery. Due to the terrain and climate, some of the finest Pinot Noir in California is made in Mendocino County. However, many wineries also produce bolder wines and source grapes from vineyards in Ukiah, a 40-minute drive east where grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Syrah can flourish.

 

Handley Cellars

My first tasting was at Handley Cellars. The easygoing hospitality manager, Alice Lawrence, warmly greeted me. She set a table for me on the exquisite patio and walked me through their wines. While tasting, she shared sweet-spirited stories about the winery and the people who have long been a part of it. There is a palpable sense of camaraderie amongst the staff and the guests they graciously welcome.

The tasting room has a large, intricate bar and eccentric artwork. The art was collected by founding winemaker Milla Handley’s parents, who were world travelers and art connoisseurs. Milla passed away in 2020, and daughter Lulu is now at the helm, keeping the winery’s energy thriving.

The winery is a Certified Organic Estate Vineyard that makes excellent wine using sustainable practices. My favorites were the 2020 Pinot Noir, which had interesting flavors of huckleberries, cardamom, and cola, and the 2022 Brightlighter White, a blend of Pinot Gris, Viognier, and Pinot Blanc with aromas of orange blossoms and soft yet oily texture. After tasting the Brightlighter, Alice explained that the word means ‘city folks’ in Boontling, a secret dialect in this part of California of which, after this trip, I am no longer a stranger.

 

Husch Vineyards

The energetic, fun-loving owner, Amanda, chatted with me about Husch Vineyards’ history and her childhood days playing on the very vineyard we sat upon. She shared that when the time came, she and her brother knew they had to be all in if they wanted to take over. As we sipped through their tasting menu, I gained a tremendous amount of respect for their obvious commitment to excellence and the connections they keep and make with colleagues, staff, and guests.

Founded in 1971, Husch Vineyards is the oldest winery in the Anderson Valley. Since 1979, the winery has been owned and operated by the Oswald family—currently the third generation and siblings Amanda Holstine and Zac Robinson. No-till farming has been carried out in their vineyard since the earliest days, and sheep act as vineyard managers as they graze between the rows of vines. The family has a gift for combining old traditions, yet they also embrace new beginnings and welcome change.

My favorite Husch wines were the 2022 Vin Gris, a crisp, dry rose with fresh strawberries and citrus notes, great for a summer day. Although I loved all their wines, the 2019 Knoll Pinot Noir had beautiful floral aromas, earth flavors, and a dainty finish. Additionally, the Knoll is a special piece of land where Husch Vineyards planted the first Pinot Noir in the Anderson Valley — the family says the Knoll is treated like royalty at harvest.

Navarro Vineyards

As I approached Navarro Vineyards and Winery, I admired the grounds and the luxurious outdoor seating with an impressive backdrop of the vineyards. Inside the tasting room, it was busy, with people standing at the counter tasting wine and placing orders. I bellied up to the bar, and staff member David poured for me and the other guests, explaining the nuances of each wine.

Navarro Vineyards is a pioneer in the Anderson Valley. It has been sustainably growing grapes and making wine since 1974. Its sister vineyard, Penny Royal, is also a dairy and creamery owned by the daughter of the proprietors of Navarro.

Throughout my tastings, I especially enjoyed their filtered and unfiltered 2021 Pinot Noirs and the 2022 Riesling, which had intense peach and apricot notes, bright acid, and a hint of petrol on the nose.

Foursight Wines

When I arrived at Foursight Wines, it was raining, but proprietor Kristy Charles grabbed an umbrella without hesitation and suggested we take a walk to show me the vineyard. With a genuine demeanor, she spoke of her family and their exceptional ties to the land where they grow their grapes. She welcomes families to visit and is excited about their newly planted lavender garden, which is beautiful and another attraction for people to enjoy.

Kristy’s parents, Bill and Nancy Charles, founded Foursight in 2006. The Charles family’s property in Boonville is dear to them, as four generations have dedicated their lives to building everything their farm can offer. From lumber to wine, all generations have worked the land and remain meticulous in nourishing it. Kristy’s husband, Joe Webb, is the winemaker, and their young son, Evan, is beginning to show promise in the craft.

There was something cozy about sipping wine in their tasting room built with logs from the past family business. Foursight primarily grows Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, and Semillon. Their elegant Sauvignon Blanc orange wine was delightful, with citrus notes, vibrant acidity, and a round finish. My favorite wine was the Zero New Oak Pinot Noir, aged in older French barrels, focused on the fruit — ripe berries, tart red plums, and cherries popped, accompanied by gentle minerality.

 

Lichen Estate

When I entered the Lichen Estate tasting room, General Manager and winemaker Shawn Phillip was ready to sit and taste with me. He kindly said he was glad I was there—it warmed my soul because I could tell he was. We were quickly joined by owner Doug Stewart, who was equally heartfelt and extremely passionate about their work. We tasted outside, overlooking the horizon and the mountainous landscape in the distance, and chatted about wine and life.

Stewart bought the 230-acre old sheep ranch in 2000 and, in 2005, founded the Breggo Cellars brand. Breggo’s first vintage received high praise; Robert Parker boasted the Pinot Gris as the finest ever in the New World. Coming full circle, the Breggo label was sold in 2009 and bought back in 2023. Meanwhile, they have been making premier still and sparkling Lichen Wine from their estate farm since 2012. Today, Breggo and Lichen coexist as one family, with two locations now 10 miles apart.

I was particularly keen on their Blanc de Gris, made in the traditional Champagne method. It was light and lovely, with delicate fruit on the palate. However, the Solera Pinot Noir was remarkable, as its multi-vintage fractional blending includes components of every vintage since 2011; the florals, orange peel, and baked berries in the wine showed complexity and an outstanding expression of the vine.

Witching Stick Wines

My final winery visit took me to Witching Stick Wines. Owner Van Williamson immediately offered me popcorn in his casual, friendly way. When I entered, he was chatting with a few wine club members, and within seconds, I became part of their conversation. Van’s laid-back style was refreshing, and the tasting room was homey and relaxed.

Witching Stick Wines started in 2010, and the tasting room opened in 2014. Van became interested in wine in college while studying civil engineering. His love for cooking and gardening helped develop his palate for wine. Witching Stick’s Vineyard, Fashauer Vineyard is high in the hills, so Van maintains the tasting room in Philo to offer convenience to his guests. He also sources grapes from surrounding vineyards to make their wine.

The tasting line-up went from Chardonnay to Dessert Zinfandel. I was privy to the 2020 Pinot Noir from Fashauer Vineyard, which had white pepper, tart cherries, and truffle flavors. The 2021 Zinfandel from the same vineyard was another favorite, with candied plum and subtle brandy on the mid-palate.

I am thrilled that I had the opportunity to visit Mendocino County and taste the beloved Pinot Noir from the Anderson Valley—many thanks to Visit Mendocino for coordinating my trip and the Airbnb’s for hosting my stays. I am also so grateful for the wineries that carved time out of their busy schedules to taste with me. I knew the wine would speak to me, and I will remember the sophistication of every bottle. Having tasted wine from this region before, I knew the wines would meet my expectations.

What I didn’t expect was all the touching stories people told me about life in the village —of kids on the swim club or track team growing up with the sand and surf as their training ground, how they used to bus tables at historic restaurants that still exist in town, getting dropped off from school in front of the family vineyard, playing hide-and-seek in the vineyards, and neighbors taking care of neighbors.

These stories gave me an appreciation for the serendipity of living in this little corner of the country. So, when planning your next vacation to wine country, don’t forget Northern California reaches higher than the places we are familiar with. Drive up that windy road and experience just how real the magic is.